Without all the Halloween candy floating around to binge on (and thank goodness for that!), I like to keep October eating focused on seasonal greatness: Pumpkins! Ever since moving to Germany and discovering that pumpkin-flavored food must come from a real vegetable and not a can (#expatproblems), I can't roast, mash and freeze the stuff fast enough. Pumpkin waffles and pumpkin soup quickly lead to expanding my pumpkin repertoire to pumpkin pizza and pumpkin risotto - both of which are regular dinner staples for us. Yes, we ate both last month, again, but I wanted to share some new things I don't rave about every week on my Instagram.




1. Pumpkin Brown Butter Cakes from Cannelle et Vanille

I'm pretty sure I've mentioned these before, but somehow, I hadn't made them again since the first time a year ago. Sure, I've been lazy, not wanting to make another batch of brown sugar (more #expatproblems)... but I've since realized recipes that require separate wet and dry ingredient mixing means sugar goes in with the dry, molasses goes in with the wet and voilà! Long story short, I've found a shortcut that means I'll be making these babies even more. Oh yeah, and my husband declared them the best gluten-free thing I've baked in the two years since my since celiac diagnosis. So there's that.




2. Thai Pumpkin Soup

This is one those recipes I found when I first 'discovered' cooking from scratch about six years ago, and it still holds up. It's easy, pretty quick (once you have the pumpkin mash on hand) and is a lighter, refreshing take on an ingredient that so often can feel heavy and dense after a season of eating it. Just don't forget those toasted pumpkin seeds on top!




3. Pumpkin Latte Doughnuts from PaleOMG

I saw this pumpkin-focused month very quickly getting away from me with too many baked goods packed with sugar, so I wanted to put something sweet in the mix that was not-so-bad-for-you-sweet. Of course I turned to PaleOMG, as Juli's recipes consistently make me feel I'm eating legit food, and not something that's attempting to be fill-in-the-blank-here but fail miserably because they're paleo. Anyway, this recipe was just what I was looking for, satisfying my sweet tooth without the gut bomb/sugar high I get with my usual doughnut recipe (adapted with gf flour, of course). Still very paleo in texture - I'm a bit of a baking traditionalist, what can I say - the flavors of coffee and pumpkin were killer. Now if only I can figure out how she got hers looking so good...




4. Brown Butter Pumpkin Fettuccini Alfredo with Fried Cheese from Half Baked Harvest

Ever since Tieghan posted this recipe, I've had it bookmarked, eagerly awaiting when we'd make it. Once I found some fancy gluten-free fettuccini (harder than it would seem, considering our proximity to Italy), I knew the time had come. I can't tell you the last time I had fettuccini alfredo, let alone one with pumpkin, sage and fried cheese. Now I remember why. Man, was that decadent. But so, so good.




5. Pumpkin Spice Pancakes (recipe coming soon!)

Wanting to try something other than my go-to pumpkin pancake recipe, I decided to whip up pancakes a little more simple and seasonal feeling. After a couple of tries, I think I landed on just the right combination of ingredients, which I will share just as soon as I am able to take a decent pancake photo. Okay, that could be never, but better ones at least. I swear pancakes are the most delicious of the least-photogenic foods out there. Stay tuned...

September eating in Barcelona was glorious. Not only were there a surprising number of places I could eat, but these places just got it. I saw so many of these stamp-of-approval signs from the local celiac association than I've ever seen in Germany. Come to think of it, I've never seen something like this on a storefront in Germany. At the places that were not 100% gluten-free, any questions I had about cross contamination or general knowledge was easily reassured (though this was not a general knowledge, as I did have to leave one establishment after they failed to make me feel I would be eating safely). There was not only one, but two incredible, totally gluten-free bakeries. In all honesty, it was so good, it was hard to come back to Berlin and the exactly two places I can eat out at safely right now. I've been dreaming about heading back here almost since we left, and I'm sure you can see why...




1. XuXo at Jansana Gluten Free Bakery

These were the ultimate, decadent treat and they quickly became my favorite indulgence at this bakery. Essentially a tube-shaped doughnut filled with custard (I am so a custard over cream girl!), and rolled in sugar. By the end of our trip, all the ladies who worked there were saying 'oh yes, your favorite' every time I ordered one. Yeah, it became a bit of an addiction, but an oh-so-sweet one.




2. Pizzas at Celiadictos

When we headed here for lunch one day, I must admit I was a little disappointed to realize we'd come all the way across town to what is essentially just a storefront and the mostly sweet options are just for takeaway. After looking around, we discovered pizzas in the freezer and the folks there very kindly heated them in their ovens for us. We found a nearby bench at a little park where we could enjoy them and carrying the hot, delicious-smelling lunch to our spot, our excitement couldn't even be dampered by the fact that we had to tear apart the uncut, whole pizzas. Not only were the toppings super tasty, but the crust blew us away. Not a traditional thin, flaky crust, the heartier base was infused with herbs, making it one of the most flavorful pizza crusts I've enjoyed.




3. Apple tart from Celiadictos

After we wolfed down our delicious pizzas, it was clear this place knew what it was doing. It would have been a crime not to go back to try something sweet. We got a few of its cookies and cake slices to go, but it was the apple tart that we ate there in the park that was most impressive. Sliced apples and a thin layer of custard provided just the right amount of sweetness atop the most perfectly-flakey gluten-free puff pastry. Even with my deep love for everything at Jansana, this might have been my favorite dessert there for its simplicity and every aspect of it done just right.




4. Vigueta sandwich from Conesa

This place is pretty much on everyone's gluten-free Barcelona list, but I must admit my first few visits I felt it was a little... lacking. Granted, it's more of the fast-food persuasion and meals here are super cheap, but I still want my food to taste really good, regardless. My third time in, just a quick stop on my way out to the beach, I tried a new sandwich, specifically searching for a bit more flavor - and I hit the jackpot. This one was stuffed with two kinds of sausages, one spicy and one more mild, sauteed peppers and a spicy sauce, was just what I had been wanting. It was bit messy for my eating on-the-go, but greatly satisfied my tastebuds and my belly. The bread is here is surprisingly good and all gluten-free sandwiches are prepared in a separate part of the kitchen, wrapped and stickered with gluten-free labels, so there are no worries here.




5. Virus Killer from Teresa's Juicery

My persistent cold I contracted on holiday was fighting my ability to enjoy myself, so I fought back. In addition to an army of medicines picked up at the pharmacy (nearly all labeled 'gluten-free' on the packaging, a luxury I almost never see in Germany), I found this juice shop that had a flavor that was just what the doctor ordered. Full of potent ginger and echinacea, this lemon and honey-based juice was far from medicinal tasting. At first it felt a little indulgent to spend nearly 6€ on a bottle of juice, but considering my favorite Berlin cold press costs almost as much for about half the size, but I suppose a fancy bottle of good stuff to beat feeling bad is more than worth it.




6. Steak from NaparBCN

Who knew eating a beer bar would be a good idea for a celiac? My husband convinced me to join him and a couple of friends for dinner after having the waitress talk to the chef, who happened to have a Michelin star from a previous restaurant. Since I tend to trust Michelin star chefs to care about what they're serving their customers more than say, a line cook at a chain restaurant, I decided to chance it. And I'm so glad I did. The steak was perfectly done and truffle-infused mashed potatoes that replaced the gluten-y brioche in the very best way. I even managed a flourless chocolate cake for dessert, all without any reaction.




7. Carbonara Pizza from Messié Sin Gluten

The first time we trekked out to this spot (it's not terribly close to any Metro stops), we were concerned about the lack of patrons... until we realized how early we were for Barcelona dinnertime. As the restaurant filled up and we started smelling the decadent wafting of rich, melted cheese, we knew our initial impression was very, very wrong. That first visit, we ended up sharing an amazing salad and two pizzas, the highlight of which was definitely the carbonara pizza. Just imagine the best parts of a good pizza and a carbonara pasta coming together to create the most lovely and delicious pizza baby and that's what it is. We ate here one other time, and while the pasta is quite good, the pizza is really the star and every style is delicious. Its impressive gluten-free beer selection and fresh-squeezed juices are also killer. Important to note: There is a gluten-full version of this restaurant - simply called Messié Pizza - in the same neighborhood (on Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla), so be sure you going to the one with 'Sin Gluten' in its name.




8. Caramelized Goat Cheese Salad at La Lluna

Another spot that's on everyone's gluten-free Barcelona list, La Lluna was just the place for my birthday lunch. After being escorted in from the street down the spot's rather long entryway and immediately given a glass of sparkling wine, the kind of old world vibe inside is immediately charming. Each one of the three courses was quite good, and felt like a steal considering the caliber of the meal in relation to the price. The highlight for me was definitely my goat cheese salad, with its delicately caramelized cheese over crisp greens. The only hiccup we experienced here was a miscommunication about our gluten-free bread needs, which was quickly remedied but meant it was still slightly frozen in the middle in their haste to get it to our table. My only request here would be more gluten-free dessert options, as there were painfully few compared with the rest of the menu's offerings.




9. Watermelon-Strawberry Gaspacho (with carrot and celery sorbet) at Gut

I'm not gonna lie, when looking at the menu for this widely-known gluten-free-friendly restaurant, this was the dish that stuck out to me the most. Unsurprisingly, I was not disappointed. A little bit sweet, a little bit savory, this was the ultimate gaspacho you would love to have a palate cleanser after every course, every meal.




10. Empanadas at Jansana Gluten Free Bakery

It's no mistake I began and ended this list with Jansana. This gluten-free bakery is everything a gluten-free bakery should be. There's sweet, there's savory, and everything is delicious (ok, maybe I'm still on the fence about sweet pastries made with the salty flavor of pork fat... but still). While in Barcelona, we were there pretty much everyday. The reason I chose the empanada out of all the deliciousness was mainly for its portable lunch capabilities. And because I fucking miss empanadas. This one is a little different from what I remember, both in shape and flavor. There's a little less filling than a traditional one, just a thin layer of chunky cheese and some olives and peppers on top, but the pastry was perfectly flaky and the flavors are phenomenal. What I wouldn't give to be able to pick up one of these for lunch every so often...

Let's be honest, traveling with celiac can be a huge pain in the ass. You just want to see new things, get lost in neighborhoods amongst the locals... that is until you realize you're starving and there's nowhere around to eat safely. Yes, we gluten-free folk know the importance of scouting out the right establishments and planning our touring around them. And in all honesty, how bad is it to plan a trip around the best places to eat? Even before I knew I had celiac, this was how I preferred to travel.

This was my first big trip somewhere new post-diagnosis, mainly because I heard such great things about the gluten-free options here. And I wasn't disappointed, though some surprisingly early closing hours meant careful planning was necessary (do check current times when you visit so you don't get left with an empty belly and nothing but packaged food to snack on). Whether you have to be gluten-free or not, these spots are worth a stop for something better than just whatever happens to be around.

So without further ado, these are the 10 best things I ate when I was in Copenhagen:




1. Caramel-apple oat-quinoa porridge from Grød


I ate breakfast here on three occasions, and frankly, I could have eaten here every day I was in town. There's a reason this place is talked about all over the internet, Instagrammed like crazy and even sells its own cookbook: Because it's a bowl of warm, satisfying love. The shop is a tiny little spot in a half-basement, with a kitchen so small you wonder how they even manage to serve up all that they do. Breakfast porridge, sweet porridge, savory porridge and some of the most lovely juice of apple and sea buckthorn you could ask for. Best of all: a gluten-free oat and quinoa porridge! Add the homemade, thick gooey caramel, apples and roasted almonds and it's pretty much the best breakfast ever. I gave it a shot with another topping combination, but it just didn't make my tastebuds sing the way this salty-crunchy-sweet concoction did. I still pine for it daily back in Berlin...


Grød
Jægersborggade 50, Nørrebro
also at Torvehallerne





2. Apple-cinnamon roll from Naturbageriert (Landbageriert)


Living in Germany I admit I'm much more easily bowled over by pastries that ever before. Pastries here are fine, but growing up with sugary American treats, I find them too often unsweet, dry and frankly, boring. Add to that the limited availability of gluten-free options, and I've all but given up. But this Danish swirl of apples and cinnamon was a satisfying surprise. It definitely has the whole gluten-free texture and taste, but it's done in the very best way possible. It had just the right moisture and sweetness - and I'm still kicking myself for not stocking my suitcase full of them to bring back to Berlin.

One thing to note: This place is a bit hard to find, both on the internet and in real life (but don't let that deter you - it's worth it, I promise!). It appears that it used to be called 'Naturbageriert', but is now 'Landbageriert', though it's still called Naturbageriert on the shop itself. The shop is also very understated and the signs aren't obvious. I walked past it twice and didn't realize it was there. Look for the gold pretzel and the piles of baked goods in the window. This bakery is a life saver for any celiacs in Copenhagen, complete with bread and sweet and savory pastries and rolls (most are also vegan). I enjoyed a really lovely tørkage hindbærsnitte there as well.



Naturbageriert
Frederiksborggade 29, Indre By





3. Duck fat fries from Copper and Wheat at Copenhagen Street Food


A favorite of a very kind four-year-old I know, duck fat fries were not something I was about to pass up while on holiday. Apparently it sounded enticing enough to the rest of my foodie travelling group, and we headed over for an afternoon snack before our dinner reservations one night. Turns out Copenhagen Street Food is quite the lovely spot just across the water from the Nyhavn, an interior filled with food trucks and stalls, along with plenty of cozy indoor - complete with a stone fireplace - and picturesque waterside outdoor seating.

But we didn't go there to eat - we went to snack, on double duck fat fries. Three of us shared two orders of crispy goodness with an assortment of dips, but when the fourth member of our traveling band of food-lovers joined, another order had to be made. Perfectly crisp and delicious, these are my new gold standard for fries, the regular ones forever falling flat for me now. I'm sure there's a lot more great food at this spot, but I can't imagine visiting again without a cone of fries from Copper and Wheat.



Copenhagen Street Food
Trangravsvej 14, The Paper Island, Christianshavn





4. Pizza at Costa D'Hellerup


There's a rather annoying thing about Copenhagen that I really don't care for: Everything closes early. Sure, nicer restaurants will stay open all hours as they drain the entirety of your savings account with those infamously high Danish prices, but regular cafes and food establishments are mostly closed by 6pm. So what is a traveling, gluten-free girl like myself to do? Enlist her friend who has paid for roaming internet on her phone look up a safe option that stays open later than the early-bird specials. Enter my saviour: Pizzeria Costa D-Hellerup.

Just outside of the boundary of the zones for our train tickets, my friend and I walked through the suburbs of Hellerup to get to what was my last hope for a hot dinner that night. Like most people I encountered in Copenhagen, the guys behind the counter were ridiculously friendly and charming, answering all my annoying questions about the safety of their gluten-free pizza (considering there were regular, gluten-filled pizzas to be had here as well). The owner was really passionate about serving the best and safest option for celiacs: A dough made from wheat-based flour - with the gluten removed. He said he had never had a celiac customer get sick, so I was on board, though skeptical.

Since we trekked all that way, we splurged on one of the gourmet pizzas to share, with potatoes, pesto and pancetta. After a bit of a wait considering the long line of people queueing that evening, I was blown away. This was far and away the best gluten-free pizza I had tasted. The crust, I suppose unsurprisingly, was just like what I remembered of gluten-containing crusts: light, white and with the perfect amount of flakiness. Even my gluten-eating companion was impressed. The thing that won it for me? No resulting illness or even so much as a bloated belly. This pizza is the real deal.

The only downside for travelers at this great spot? It's really more of a storefront than a restaurant. There was a couple of seats and a lone tall table set up outside (humorously right next to a bus stop, which meant every bus slowed for us until the driver realized we were eating, not waiting for a ride), but that's about it. If you've got a car, I would recommend picking up a pizza, or four, and bringing that hot, cheesy goodness back home to enjoy.




Costa D'Hellerup
Kildegårdsvej 15, Hellerup





5. Tacos at Hija De Sanchéz


When a former Noma pastry chef opens up a taco stand, you go. Sure, we ate at Relæ and Manfred's, which were lovely, but there's something about a taqueria that makes me come running. The simplicity of a well-made corn tortilla with simple fillings made with love and care is just about my favorite thing to eat - and these ones did not disappoint. Opened earlier this summer, this stand at the far end of the outdoors stalls at Torvehallerne serves up not only tacos with tortillas off a most lovely tortilla machine that I really wanted to steal and take home, but quesadillas, the most amazing chips and salsa, along with an assortment of inspired drinks like various punches or Micheladas. A little pricey for how much you get, but these are more than worth the splurge.

The taco fillings seems to change up regularly (yeah, I ate here three times) so be sure to inquire about any possible gluten ingredients, like meat braised in beer, or the like. Otherwise, the offerings are for the most part naturally gluten-free, so enjoy!



Hija De Sanchéz
TorvehallerneKBH, Frederiksborggade 21, Indre By





6. Pulled pork wrap at Palæo


Sadly, I never managed a photo of the very first thing I ate in Copenhagen after hopping off the plane and trekking out to our airbnb, but it was certainly not for it lacking in deliciousness. The pork had a nice spicy kick, a bit of a surprise coming from spice-averse Germany. Add to that the good crunch of a cabbage slaw and richness of a cashew-pesto and you have one tasty, though rather messy, lunch or snack. I will say the egg wrap was a bit paleo for my tastes (to be fair, I'm a die-hard tortilla fan), but it was altogether a tasty, good-for-you option. And since paleo is by nature gluten-free, celiacs can eat here without a care in the world.


Palæo
Pilestræde 32, Indre By
also at Torvehallerne




7. Goat sausage at Den Økologiske Pølsemand (Døp)


This famous sausage truck was mercilessly gluten-free-friendly in its offerings. While I mostly stay away from sausages (who knows what additives and casings and environment they've been in!), DØP thankfully stated their sausages were all gluten-free on their website (which was contradicted on-site, so be sure to ask which are safe) and even offer to serve them alongside vegetables instead of the ubiquitous gluten-y bun. There's even a veggie option!

I'm the first to admit that German sausages on-the-go are not what I miss most with being gluten-free, but these were some of the most impressive cart sausages I'd ever had. After being told the spicy beef and cheese options were off-limits, I opted for the award-winning goat sausage, set in a tray with mounds of pickled beets and root vegetable mash, along with mustard and ketchup. Even the pouring rain couldn't put a damper on my enjoyment.



Døp
stands at the Round Tower and the Church of the Holy Ghost, Indre By





8. Caramels at Karamelleriert


I admit, caramels are one of my favorite sweets. Since I've butchered it every time I've tried making them at home, I'm OK with indulging in some pricy store-bought ones. And indulge I did at this fantastic little shop! My friends and I visited not once but twice to fill bags full of an assortment of flavoured caramels - from regular and licorice (both in sweet and salty), special ones like citrus-mango, cinnamon-caramel and peppermint - each time engaging with the lovely guy at the shop about everything they make and kindly answering all my gluten-related questions (FYI, there was only one of the hard licorices that might contain a smidgen of gluten). He even offered us to taste every batch of licorice powder he had made to understand the nuances of each one. Clearly, they are passionate about what they do here.

On our second visit, we lucked out that it was production day, the relatively tiny shop bustling with far too many workers for the space, frantically scooping, boxing and shipping, machines cutting and wrapping long, snake-like tubes of caramel, whirring and humming. Once I gaped open mouth at the positively massive chunk of caramel resting on a work table at the window and went to take a photo, our new caramel-making friend in the prep area grabbed my phone and took a few shots from his much better vantage point. After loading up more bags and picking out a special gift for my mom (happy birthday, Mom!), not to mention getting some samples fresh out of the packaging machine, we finally bid farewell to this most sweet shop. I'm doing my best not to order online, as I'm pretty sure that would become a regular occurrence...



Karamelleriert
Jægersborggade 36, Nørrebro





9. Ice cream on a stick at Olufs


I first discovered this gem of a shop like so many wonderful things these days: via Instagram. Not one who needs any persuading for ice cream, I was equally enthralled with their gourmet execution. These are not your childhood summertime ice pops. In fact, they're not really popsicles at all, but more creamy ice cream encased in chocolate with beautiful, edible adornments on the outside. I wasn't even plotting a trip here, but when I spotted the wall displaying its logo and larger-than-life popsicle image on the side of a building while I was walking to breakfast on my own one day, I thought: Ice cream for breakfast. I mean, why not?

Somehow I lucked out and arrived just as they were opening up (again, team ice cream for breakfast) and I was overwhelmed by the freezer case full of a rainbow assortment of coated ice cream on sticks. The man behind the counter assured me they were gluten-free and asked if I needed any translation help. Luckily, Danish is so often close to German, I understood enough to identify a gorgeous-looking white chocolate and cherry pop I had to have. It melted quicker than I would have liked - after all the photos, of course - but it was thoroughly delicious and once again, I was sad I was not able to make it back for more flavors. It was also especially a treat since most gluten-free ice cream situations involve a boring cup rather than licking from a cone, I got to have my summery ice cream experience just like everyone else.



OLUFs frisklavede italienske ispinde
Olufsvej 6, Østerbro





10. Ice cream at Østerberg


I owe a huge debt of gratitude to friend and Copenhagen local Melanie for this recommendation. Aside from an unexpected stop at Olufs, my ice-cream-loving self somehow neglected to scout out any of my favorite summer (or let's face it, any time of year) treat. As soon as she explained how the gorgeous interior had blown up on Instagram, I was immediately intrigued. And so on our very last day, we made this our final stop before carting ourselves to the airport - and it did not disappoint.

The interior, with its crisp white punctuated with gorgeous watercolors of fruit, was indeed Instagram-worthy, but it was the flavors that had us swooning. Danish staples like licorice and hazelnut were joined with exotic choices like dragonfruit and aloe vera-pomegranate. I indulged, as I do, with no less than three different flavors and thoroughly enjoyed each one. The lovely girl working there - who funny enough, happened to be an American with Danish family who had relocated to this amazing city, because, why not? - swore their licorice was one of the best in Copenhagen, and while I had only tasted this one, I could swear she was right.



Østerberg Ice Cream
Rosenvængets Allé 7C, Østerbro

Summer and ice cream are pretty synonymous. Unfortunately, so are gluten and ice cream. The cones aside - oh, sweet waffle cones... - often makers include gluten in their ice cream in the form of inexpensive thickeners and stabilizers. I'll forgive the addition of things like gluten-y cookies and brownies, because, well, that's delicious, but those other gluten-based additions are just unnecessary. Between these sneaky additives and all those cross-contamination possibilities, it's easy to feel left out as a celiac watching every summer passerby licking an ice cream cone.

But there is hope! Even in the land of gluten (beer! pretzels!) and limited celiac understanding ("but you can have spelt, right..?"), Berlin has some shining beacons of that ubiquitous summer treat safe for the intolerant among us. There aren't any 100% gluten-free establishments, but after my first summer post-celiac diagnosis exploring Berlin's ice cream scene, these are my favorites that have kept my sensitive gut, not to mention my very particular palate, very happy:


Leck Mich, Mitte & Prenzlauer Berg



First off, let's just admit that the name - "lick me" - is amazing. In fact, this shop's whole branding and decor is spot-on. But it wasn't until I discovered that this ice cream was gluten-free that I became a regular. The part that absolutely wins it for me? Gluten-free waffle cones! Not the out-of-a-box ones that a few other places use (see below), but homemade, real-deal waffle cones. Bar none, the best in Berlin. For the actual ice cream, we're talking 100% natural, organic ingredients with flavors like kafir lime, basil, cran-apple and yogurt. Reminiscent of gelato, the flavors are light and refreshing, perfect for summertime. Or anytime, if you're an ice cream lover like I am.

While the site claims they are 100% gluten-free, it's important to note that there is a cheesecake flavor which does contain gluten, as well as having wheat-based waffle cones, so the possibility of cross-contatmination is there, but still significantly less than most places. There's a lovely employee at the Mitte location that has clearly influenced the shop's gluten awareness, from the way they wrap the gluten-free waffle cones in plastic to handling them carefully-wrapped in a napkin so as to prevent gluten contamination (note: I have not seen the Lychener Str. location employ these practices, so it's worth asking for this level of care if your intolerance is high). They even sold some of her delicious gluten-free brownies one time I visited. Here's hoping they have even more gluten-free offerings, especially once peak ice cream season comes to a close.

What to order: Kabuba (Karotte Buttermilch Banane) on a gluten-free waffle cone or the affagatto, also available in a version for kids made with hot chocolate



Leck Mich
Ackerstrasse 144, 10115 Berlin-Mitte
S Nordbahnhof/ U/tramRosenthaler Platz
Tel: 030 54843909
Tues-Fri: 14-22, Sat & Sun: 12-22*

Second location:
Lychener Strasse 11, 10437 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
U/tram Eberswalder Strasse
Open: Tues-Sun 12-23*




Eis Voh, Friedenau



In business since 2010, Eis Voh was among the first to cater to the needs of the gluten-free here in Berlin. In addition to ice cream and gluten-free waffle cones (corn-based and out of a box, OK but not a dupe for the real thing), they have serval different kinds of cakes and breads, as well as some savory options. The sweets are unsurprisingly very German, from ice cream flavors like plum and poppy seed to less-sweet, drier cake selections, but there are a few not-so-common options like cinnamon ice cream and French-inspired eclairs as well. I've heard there is gluten-free Spätzle available here, which pleases me to no end, as it's one of the German foods I've missed the most. For now, I've only frequented this spot for the sweets.

How aware are these folks about cross-contamination? Let's just say that when my husband was about to put my gluten-free cone into the cone holder to free up his hands to pay, he was quickly stopped and warned there could be gluten on it from the wheat-based cones they also offer. Clearly, they know the needs of their customers. So while there are "regular" waffle cones for the rest of the customers, I'm pretty sure just about everything else in this shop is gluten-free, from the ice cream and cake selections, to the freshly-baked breads and few shelves of gluten-free mixes, cereals and boxes of cones to take home. The location is a bit off the beaten track, but I promise it's worth the trek out there.

What to order: Eierlikör (Germany's answer to American spiked egg nog) and raspberry (one of the best I've tried) ice cream or the can't-believe-it's-gluten-free chocolate eclairs




Eis Voh
Bundesallee 118, 12161 Berlin-Friedenau
U Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz
Tel: 030 85402065
Open daily 11-20*




Eisbox, Moabit



Known for it's simple yet special flavors and organic ingredients, Eisbox is truly a treat for Berliners. The stark, clean shop interior is perfectly aligned with the flavorful, unadorned ice cream in the case. You'll find no child-centric graphics or dusting of some unknown accoutrement on top of the flavors here, just excellent Eis that speaks for itself. Standby's like licorice, tonka and lime-rosemary are accompanied by the best of seasonal flavors: rhubarb-yogurt in the spring, cucumber-melon in the summer and plum-cinnamon in the fall. Another bonus? You can find cartons of a few select flavors for sale at Denn's Biomarkt as well.

Even though the ice cream here is all gluten-free (at the time of inquiry for this post) and gluten-free cones are on offer, the awareness of gluten-free needs is a little less than ideal, with the gluten-free cones handled and set up without protection, the same as the wheat-based cones. Depending on your level of intolerance, it is something to be aware of and possibly ask for more care when you order.

What to order: cafe oriental, a spicy cinnamon and cardamon with a hint of coffee, the simple orange-essenced vanilla or any of the unique herbal-fruit combinations



Eisbox
Elberfelder Str. 27, 10555 Berlin-Moabit
U Hansaplatz/ Solinger Strasse bus
Tel: 030 54484652
Open: Mon-Sat 12-21, Sun: 12-20*




Giorgio Lombardi, Mitte



Admittedly, I have a soft spot for Italian gelato and lucky for me, this newer spot does not disappoint. Giorgio Lombardi has the winning combination of a prime spot on Weinbergsweg in Mitte and flavors that will knock your socks off: Pineapple and lime, banana and ginger, melon, Italian classics like Tiramisu and Stracciatella... Plus, they take quality seriously. The nuts in the pistachio hail from Sicily and the 75% dark chocolate uses the best Domori cocoas. And it's no wonder they know their stuff: They already have a shop in Northern Italy.

All the ice cream, as well as the cakes and savory items are labeled as to their gluten, and vegan, status. With only one ice cream flavor containing gluten when I've been on various trips there this summer, cross-contamination possibilities are rare, though they also stock gluten-containing waffle cones (sadly, no gluten-free cones are on offer here). Overall, they seem very knowledgeable about gluten on the production end and the labeling is clear. Thank goodness those Italians and their celiac awareness have made it to Berlin.

What to order: the unbelievable ricotta with candied orange, the coffee that is a dead ringer for the long-time holy grail of coffee ice cream from Häagen-Dazs or one of the special ice cream cocktails when they are available



Gelateria Giorgio Lombardi
Weinbergsweg 5, 10119 Berlin-Mitte
U/tram Rosenthaler Platz
Tel: 0152 12086378
Open Mon-Thurs 9-22, Fri 9-24, Sat 10-24, Sun 10-22*


Runner-Up: Zwei Dicke Bären



Even though they're not really a shop (you can find them with their freezer cart at various food events around the city and at Mos Eisley, the gelateria where they source their ice cream) and the product is really more cookie than ice cream, I felt my good friends The Bears deserved some mention on this list. I like to think that in some small part because of my special food needs, the guys developed a couple gluten-free options in the last year that mean I can get my ice cream sandwich fix like the rest of the gluten-eating Berliners. They were also just featured on the premiere episode of "How to Make It In: Berlin", a web series by two New Yorkers about small business owners and their success stories around the world.

The Bears' allergy-friendly standby, the vegan and gluten-free almond cookie with chocolate sorbet is pretty tasty, but it was their chocolate meringue cookies with raspberry ice cream they did for the Berlin Ice Cream Market earlier this summer that blew me away. If you have gluten-free needs, be sure to ask them about what they offer and pick up a gluten-free sandwich whenever you can, so they know the demand is there!


Zwei Dicke Bären
Find them at Street Food Thursday and Gelateria Mos Eisley



* Opening times often vary from one season to the next, so be sure to check before heading over

ice cream cocktail photo courtesy of Ana Dahan