Ahh, Berlin. It is a glorious place. So full of creative, entrepreneurial energy, which makes it an ideal city to seek out locally-made and designed products for the gift-giving season. Some of these great items I've picked up myself, some have been past gifts and some I pine for on my own wish list, but they are indeed some of the best that Berlin has to offer. Here are my picks (plus, a little background on each):


01. Antikapratika ceramic bowls | This Italian couple and tattoo-artist team started creating art off the skin with this gorgeous line of tattoo-inspired ceramic bowls. While the blue-based tattoo designs are their focus, I must admit I love the black designs that they have produced of late. You can see more at Un Autre Voodoo in Neukölln, and they seem happy to work with customers who want more of a specific design. This one's on my list please, Santa!


02. Maisoap | I first stumbled across this soap at a Christmas shopping market last year and have since noticed it popping up at various weekend markets across the city. Kreuzberg-based, this family business has been in operation since 2006, focusing on quality fats and oils for its soap production. Scents range from subtle basics like olive oil or lavender to the more complex coconut-lemongrass, avocado-mint and the cosmic-looking Berlin Bubble. While they offer essential oils and bath bombs as well, the bars of soap are really the stars.


03. Fluenk leather bags | While I was first intrigued by designer Anna's simple, soft tote bags at the Mauerpark Flohmarkt, complete with straps long enough for my lengthy limbs and an interior closer (thank goodness!), I have since become smitten with the rest of her unique yet timeless designs. Working with cow leather that would otherwise be a waste product of the food industry, the leather is tanned in Italy and made into not only bags, but wallets and other small goods as well. Though Fluenk is relatively new, the quality and craftsmanship speaks to a lasting Berlin business.


04. Atheist shoes | Ironically, I first found out about this company from the Instagram of a US-based graphic designer. Drawn in by the cheeky atheism messages stamped on the soles (and emblazoned on tote bags), I was won over by this concept of handmade, quality shoes. Technically, they're constructed in Portugal, but designed here in Berlin. With leather that is unprocessed, vegetable-dyed and gently tumbled for softness, customers swear they're 'like walking on hugs from baby kittens'.


05. Apfelsina bags | It doesn't get more Berlin than a bag made from photographs of this city's iconic landmarks and street art. Founded over a decade ago, creator Ina Kerkhoff began with a small, colourful collection of bags, and quickly expanded to varying materials and concepts as the inspiration struck. Designed and handmade in Berlin, her Stone Bone and Tempelhofer Freiheit collections are quite literally a pictorial representation of this great city.


06. Belyzium chocolate | A fan from day one, I've been frequenting this Berlin chocolatier for some time. At first, it was for the chocolate bars, now, I'm a regular for its spicy, rich Maya hot chocolate. With the addition of ice cream, hazelnut chocolate spread and even chocolate-infused rum, it has become the ultimate chocolate destination in Berlin. The owners will happily wax poetic about their chocolate, which only makes you fall more in love with the place. Finding out they had US-based partners in the California city I called home for a good part of my twenties felt even more like I was meant to be there. I often stop in when I need a small gift for someone, but have a hard time leaving without something for myself as well!


07. Format clothing | A bit like Atheist shoes, this Berlin-based clothing company creates well-designed, quality pieces from quality materials. Made in both Berlin-Neukölln and Szczecin, Poland, the designs are described as minimalistic, but with some truly beautiful tucking and pleating used in unexpected ways. With such attention to detail and certified organic materials, these are investment pieces meant to last a lifetime. My favorite is this cozy hooded sweater that is the epitome of Berlin winter wear.


08. Kaiserhonig | Anyone who knows me, knows I adore this honey. In two variations: thick honey with various fruit or spice or herb additions, or a creamier 'milk cream' honey with flavors like whiskey creme and salted caramel, they are a delicious treat on breakfast toast. You can also pick up an assortment of three small jars - perfect for gift-giving - at its regular stand at the Mauerpark Flohmarkt. Side note: a jar of the Zimt honey is a regular on my mom's Christmas list!


09. Berliner Winter | Cloudy, organic apple juice, spices and vodka. Drink it warm to stave off that Berlin winter chill. Buy it in bulk to give as gifts or horde for your own warming purposes. 'Keeps you warm, makes you tipsy and tastes so delicious.' What could be better - or more Berlin? Talk about a perfect stocking stuffer.


10. Elicamente jewelry | Hailing from Rome, Berlin-based artist Gabriele di Stefano makes gorgeous jewelery pieces that combine ceramics with wood and brass, drawing on the connection between humans and nature. The simple stud earrings and MRMR collection of necklaces are definite stand-outs. It also looks like he's branching out into other areas, with lovely little concrete planters available for pre-order to ship in February.



*photo of Antikapratika bowls by talented Berlin food photographer Claudia Gödke

Guys. They are notoriously hard to shop for. Never as transparent as women, never gushing 'ooo, I just adore this bag,' sometimes it's hard to know what to get them. Like women, guys are just as multifaceted and unique in their wants, but you've got to start somewhere. Oftentimes, the best way to go isn't with something they necessarily need (not that socks or tools aren't great and all...). This guide touches on cocktails to gadgets to attire, all in a stylish way most men would have a hard time finding fault with. There's a super cool coffee table book, a pullover so soft it will up his huggable factor exponentially and even special batch whiskies made from beer. And don't forget the shoes!

01. Drake General Store Maple Syrup Sampler | 02. Flight001 Guy Stuff Pouch  

03. Food52 Carry On Cocktail Kit (three variations) | 04. Ace & Tate Murray sunglasses | 05. ohw? Gatland shoes 

06. J.Crew grizzly fleece pullover jacket | 07. Boston Harbor Distillery x Samuel Adams Spirit of Boston Whiskies 

08. Corkcicle whiskey wedge | 09. Anatomy in Black by Emily Evans | 10. Native Union Dock Lightning

I believe everyone truly has a bit of homebody in them. Even the most energetic party girl needs downtime every now and then. For the perpetual Netflix-on-the-couch gal to those who just need to make the most of her infrequent nights in, these gift ideas can suit anyone who enjoys where they live. From indulgent coasters and gilded untensils that makes even take-out feel like a special affair, to wooly slippers that have changeable, outdoor-friendly soles, these are the makings of a happy home life. Think Danish Hygge - that untranslatable feeling of coziness complete with candles, couch cuddles and great company - because who wouldn't love that? People draping those sheepskins all over their furniture were really onto something...

01. Chipper Things Should I Wash My Hair Today? Flowchart | 02. Skandinavisk Hygge candle 

03. Click & Grow Smart Herb Garden | 04. Vika Sky serving utensils | 05. Rosanna Booze decanter

06. Jonathan Adler Malachite coasters | 07. Klippan lapp blanket | 08. IKEA sheepskin  

09. Mahabis classic slipper | 10. L.L. Bean plush-lined robe

If, like me, you are getting a later start on shopping for the holidays, I'm here to help. All this week, I'm rounding up gift ideas in several categories based on who you're shopping for. I like to think there's a little bit of me in each of these themes, so hopefully this informs on-the-nose gift-giving. Expect footwear recommendations across the board, because I am the shoegirl, after all.

First up, we have the Stylista. I call her this because 'Fashionistas' are too often slaves to labels and trends, whereas the Stylista believes firmly in her own sense of style and loves pieces because they are beautiful and well-made, not because someone else told her she should. She strives to own only chic, useful pieces, but enjoys the indulgence of something just plain pretty, or witty. This means good-for-you lip products in classic colors, Italian-made scarves, leather sneakers from Barcelona and diamonds in an unexpected, understated way. Essentially, things she'll treasure for more than just a season.

01. Bite Beauty Discovery Set | 02. Clare V. gold splash foldover clutch 

03. Louise Kragh raw diamond necklace | 04. Cuyana monogrammed leather tassel keychain 

05. Casetify iPhone case | 06. J.Crew Italian brushed wool scarf | 07. Boden leopard boots* 

08. Meyba leather joggers | 09. Garance Doré's Love Style Life | 10. Day Birger et Mikkelsen Gweneth mini bag

*Photo via Vienna Wedekind

Let's face it, it's always nice to give, but it's pretty damn awesome to receive too. I can't stop coveting all things warm and fuzzy and sparkly and shiny, especially this time of year. And a shoegirl can never go wrong with shoes, of course. Whether it's swanky headphones (I've been testing a lot, and let me tell you, these German ones are the best sound) or simple, inexpensive little studs, something coveted is always something appreciated. Even if you don't get everything you want, there are always after-Christmas sales...

Here's to a season full of things you love, from presents to family to food!

touch-screen leather & knit gloves | gold 2015 calendar | Sennheiser headphones 

elastic wool sweatshirt | plaid wool scarf | copper Birks | Nike Blazer sneakers 

prescriptions sunnies | triangle stone studs | sequin side-stripe shirt | sequin stripe skirt 

black satchel | faux fur clutch | navy topcoat

After waiting and waiting for a cooktop that seems as though it will never work, in addition to some after-Christmas Christmas shopping, we finally called it: it was time to celebrate that holiday that most had already observed and packed away weeks before. Sure, my usual over-the-top, too-much-food feast would have to be culled down to whatever could be prepared in just the oven and holiday decor would just have to mingle with the moving boxes still stacked high, but it was long overdue. And the Christmas spirit was looking as lost as the piles of dead trees abandoned on every corner.

So last weekend, nearly three weeks after real Christmas, we declared a holiday do-over. From my silly traditions like hot bean dip for breakfast while opening presents and stockings full of goodies well into adulthood, to traditional Christmas sugar cookies and a roasted bird, we managed to create a day that still felt as fulfilling and enjoyable as the real deal. We spoiled each other with good presents, but none was as spoiled as the four-legged member of our family. Perhaps because she has no grandchildren of the two-legged variety, my mother's holiday package that arrived just in time for our celebration was mostly full of toys and treats for Bailey. It seems we have become those dog owners (though we do draw the line at doggy attire).

Cooking is most definitely a passion of mine and at least for me, the holidays center around all the wonderful things to eat. I surprised myself by actually being able to make many of my favorite recipes and we certainly didn't feel like the feast was lacking. I cooked the bourbon-cranberry compote (critical, without the ability to make gravy) in the oven, whipped up the herb biscuits (so good, I don't know why I only manage these for the holidays) in the morning and got the sweet potato casserole (baking, rather than boiling the potatoes first to soften them for mashing) and the delicious corn souffle (recipe via my step-father's family back in Illinois, now the star of many a holiday feast), complete with crunchy bacon and fried onion topping, were perfectly timed to cook just after the turkey came out to rest. The whole thing was perhaps a little makeshift and more trouble than it would have been with a complete kitchen, but it definitely tasted just as good - if not better because of appreciating the effort.

So while next year's holiday festivities will likely be more planned out, perhaps even with some Berlin friends to take part, and most definitely occurring closer to actual Christmas, this wasn't a bad start to the first of many celebrations that will take place in our new Berlin home. We had ourselves a very merry little Christmas and have a new year in one of the greatest cities in the world ahead of us, for which we are most grateful.

Much like our rushed, Christmastime introduction to Germany four years ago, our move to Berlin right before the holidays meant we could only manage a single trip to our neighborhood Weihnachtsmarkt on its final night. Much like Wiesbaden did, the Christmas market here surprised and impressed us. Held in the courtyard of a giant old brick brewery, the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der KulturBrauerei pays homage to the Nordic and Scandinavian countries with its rustic, woodsy decor and real wood-burning standing heaters.

No different from the rest of our eating experiences thus far in Berlin, the food options at this market proved to be phenomenal. The Dinnele, a thin crust covered with potatoes, cheese, onions or other various toppings and baked in a wood fire oven (also called Dinnete in other regions), and the Kartoffelpuffer, which is essentially a potato pancake, were the best we'd had at any market. The specialty hot drinks from various countries were also quite good, the highlight being a variety of fruity Nordic liquor that could be added to the traditional mulled wine. I am anxiously awaiting the Christmas season next year, so I can return for all the variations that had sold out before we got there, including baked apple Glühwein and several I had never even heard of.

Thanks for a great first Christmas season, Berlin. We can't wait for next year!



Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt
in der KulturBrauerei
10435 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
daily from late November until December 22

I first fell in love with Freinsheim on a mini road trip a few years back. When a German historian friend tells you about a 5,000-year-old town, complete with a 15th-century stone fortification wall, you go. Based on the description, you might expect to step into a time warp once you get inside the city's walls - and you'd be right. The ancient wall (refortified in the 18th century after destruction in the Nine Year's War) remains and the city feels as through it still belongs in another era. Half-timbered, crumbling homes meander alongside the wall so close, at times you must turn sideways just to squeeze through. Even non-history buffs can't escape the immense feeling of time gone by.

So when I discovered they had a Christmas market, just like the rest of Germany, I knew we had to visit. Much like the town itself, its Weihnachtsmarkt is small, modest and lacks the showiness of larger cities, but that is its charm. Rather than the massive stalls, overflowing with meter-long gummi ropes and cotton candy machines, there is a little hard candy stand that I make sure to find every year to buy an assortment of flavors. Instead of loud and colorful kids' carnival monstrosities, there is a horse-drawn carriage you can ride through town. Food options stay more traditional, with Wurst and Flammkuchen, with a few eateries on the main block opening their patios to serve soups and a couple of plates centered around ubiquitous German meats and cheeses. We did make an amazing food discovery last year in the form of apple beignets - apple rings dipped in batter, fried, and dusted with cinnamon sugar - which were sadly absent this year. Here's hoping they return in the years to come...

Charm aside, one of the main reasons we made the hour-plus trek down for this particular market was the Portugieser Glühwein. While I'm not entirely sure what is different about this hot mulled wine, it is the perfect combination of not too sweet and not too spicy, not to mention it's served in the prettiest little rustic market mugs. Whether it's for the wine, the ancient wall or even for an excursion outside of the Christmas season, Freinsheim will remain one of my favorite little German towns.



Weihnachtsmarkt Freinsheim
Historische Altstadt, von Tor zu Tor
67251 Freinsheim
Friday evenings and weekends, from late November to late December