Exploring Berlin | UNESCO World Heritage Site: Berlin Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg / Tuschkastensiedlung

November 25, 2015

UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung at graphic doorway of house on Gartenstadtweg

The diversity of sights here in Berlin never ceases to amaze me. I love everything from the gritty, graffitied streets in Neukölln to the sprawling, Palo Alto-esque homes we pass through every time we head out to Grunewald. In a city where bombs leftover from past conflicts can still disrupt daily life, you come to expect the unexpected. But I can say that I was at least a bit surprised to discover the Falkenberg Garden City, a most charming development out in Bohnsdorf, built between 1913 and 1916 as a cooperative building society model. Architecture is a hobby of mine (one I even studied for a time) and I immediately added this to my must-see list.

So one weekend blissfully free of rain, we made a plan to check it out. It was the first day this season where the nip in the air cut to the bone, so I put on my new favorite teddy bear-like fleece jacket, along with urban trekking friendly sneakers and my new CRU London Gordon backpack for easy picture taking and snack toting. I am all about whatever makes it easier to explore this city in a comfortable way - and this time of year, a warm one as well! Bundled and ready, we headed out to the far southeast corner of the city.

Somewhere between Schönefeld Airport and Müggelsee, you will find a few streets with these colorful, distinctive houses. Tucked into an otherwise unremarkable Berlin suburb, these homes recall a much earlier era, one in which optimism and forward-thinking were paramount. We began with the street that was the second stage of development, Gartenstadtweg, on which several different kinds of homes were arranged in long, connected rows and staggered groups. Even with its long, linear model, the community and connectedness were apparent in the repeating architectural elements. True to its name, the homes on this street were overflowing with plantlife, even in late autumn. More striking than the lush gardens and lawns, a rarity in urban living, was the vibrant, idyllic architecture. The original little nook of homes on Akazienhof is less sprawling, but no less charming, with a cozy inner stretch of Robinia tree-lined green space. It's a little like a fairytale village within what is commonly seen as a gritty, urban city.

You can see more of my photos from this great spot here.


UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung grey homes along Gartenstadtweg UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung double white doorways with arbor UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung double yellow doorways with arbor
UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung in front of yellow and orange houses on Gartenstadtweg with CRU London Gordon backpack UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung looking at large black house with graphic accents wearing CRU London Gordon backpack

UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung gate to Gartenstadtweg 64 CRU London Gordon backpack on fence at UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung
UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung stairs to bright blue house on Gartenstadtweg UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung raised yellow house with tiered garden on Gartenstadtweg
UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung large orange house on Gartenstadtweg
CRU London backpack | Uniqlo fleece coat | Krochet Kids Intl hat | Ace & Tate glasses
Design House Stockholm scarf | Nike sneakers (similar)
UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung on Gartenstadtweg sidewalk at colorful houses with CRU London Gordon backpack

UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung orange checkered front of house on Gartendstadtweg Krochet Kids Intl knit hat and Ace and Tate Lucca glasses at UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung row of yellow and orange houses on Gartenstadtweg CRU London Gordon backpack at graphic front of house at UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung Nike Internationalists at red doorway of UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung green door with arbor on Akazienhof UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung window with overgrown ivy on Akazienhof UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung path to large individual home on Akazienhof UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung row of colorful houses on Akazienhof UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung garden gnome on rain pipe in garden on Akazienhof UNESCO World Heritage Site Berlin Modernism Housing Estates Gartenstadt Falkenberg Garden City Tuschkastensiedlung large purple house on Am Falkenberg

Gartenstadt Falkenberg
Akazienhof, Am Falkenberg, Gartenstadtweg, 12524 Berlin
S Grünau


This post is in collaboration with CRU London. Concept and styling are entirely my own.

10 Recipes and Tips for a Gluten-Free Thanksgiving

November 19, 2015

Thanksgiving Gluten-Free Recipe Round-Up
Thanksgiving Gluten-Free Recipe Round-Up with sides

It's no surprise that my first turkey - and my first-ever hosting of Thanksgiving - was mostly courtesy of Real Simple's recipes. At a time when I was still learning my way around a kitchen and German grocery store (where most American conveniences, like canned pumpkin, had to be made from scratch), I figured I'd make it as easy on myself as I could. Years later, I find many of these recipes still hold up, still garnering rave reviews. They're not "cheater" recipes or lacking in any way, they're just simple, easy-to-understand ways of getting to the same result: a delicious Thanksgiving - or any holiday, really - dinner. And when you have such a massive feast to prepare, who couldn't use some simplification?

Only now, it all has to be gluten-free (thank you, celiac), which adds an extra layer (or five) of complication. It's important to note, as it often is with gluten-free needs, the devil's in the details. Even if you've managed to procure some gluten-free rolls for yourself or your gluten-free guest, gluten so often lurks in the most unexpected of places. That broth you use to rehydrate your turkey? It commonly has wheat or yeast grown from wheat. Nuts and spices, staples on any good Thanksgiving table? More often than not, it reads "may contain gluten" on the label. Seriously?! Sometimes it feels like the whole food industry is out to get us.

Staying safe from glutening requires diligence and flexibility. Always read labels and if you are hosting someone with food allergies, be sure to ask what things to look out for as you buy your ingredients, as many celiacs often have other food sensitivities. Don't forget about cross-contamination in the kitchen and on the table - designate serving utensils for the gluten-free food and use a dedicated gluten-free cutting board for preparation of allergy-friendly food. It can be a hassle, but I promise, your gluten-free guest will be so grateful they might even tear up at being able to take part in such a special meal (yes, I've done this).

So with Thanksgiving a week away, I thought I'd share my favorite recipes - plus a few new ones - that I'm going to depend on this year:

  • These are the guidelines I've followed every year for Thanksgiving turkey (and a few times, Christmas), with great results. Don't let the task scare you off, it's easier than you think. And no matter what your grandmother did: No stuffing in the bird! Not only does it slow down the cooking time, but if it's with wheat-based bread, the whole thing is then contaminated for the gluten-free.

  • This apple, cranberry and pecan stuffing was a game-changer for me, having grown up on sticky Stovetop that had me convinced I hated stuffing. Whether you use a traditional Italian loaf for those non-allergy folks, or a good, hearty gluten-free white loaf (I've done both, pre- and post-celiac diagnosis), both ways turn out as the best stuffing I've ever tasted. Last year, guests even rated mine above the gluten-filled stuffing someone else brought. Boom!

  • The mushy canned yams of my childhood Thanksgivings I've replaced with real steamed sweet potato casserole, albeit in a very decadent presentation. With brown sugar and marshmallows, it's a bit more like dessert. Gluttonous, but that's kind of what Thanksgiving is all about.

  • Mashed potatoes are a must, with copious amounts of butter. Adding sour cream to them is the trick my mom taught me that I use to this day.

  • Ever since my step-dad joined the family, his mom's corn soufflé has become a staple at our holiday feasts. Every time I've served it at my Thanksgivings, it's always met with high praise - and second helpings. It's classic, middle-America goodness. (find the recipe below)

  • With all this heavy stuff, I like to whip up some fresh green veggies so I don't feel as if I'll have a coronary right there at the table. These green beans with pecans and maple vinaigrette are simple yet elevated enough for a holiday table.

  • Embarassingly, I'm a fan of the jelly cranberry sauce that plunks out in a can-shaped blob onto the serving dish, but that's purely nostalgia from my childhood. As as adult, I have discovered that real cranberry relish - made from real, fresh cranberries - are where it's at. This Bourbon Cranberry Compote - add the zest from one orange, trust me! - is just what turkey (and leftover turkey sandwiches) is begging for.


I realize saying this is a bit of Thanksgiving sacrilege, but pumpkin pie is not my favorite thing. More often than not, it's a slightly gelatinous hunk with only a subtle pumpkin flavor and a too dry, lackluster crust. But I love pumpkin, so I'm all about finding something better. These are my top pumpkin dessert contenders this year (or perhaps I'll make them all...):

  • This pumpkin mousse pie from Anna of Creamy Crunchy Sweet is absolutely delicious. Good pumpkin flavor, creamy yet light, I was bowled over when I tested this recipe out last month. Instead of just subbing in a standard gluten-free pie crust, I made a more simple crust of crushed Schär Spekulatius cookies and butter (I followed this recipe for the crust) for a great flavor and texture to accompany that creamy pumpkin filling. A bit crumbly, but so good.

  • One of my very favorite gluten-free blogs - the seasonal recipes! that photography! - just published this beautiful Hazelnut Pumpkin Tart, which I probably stared at googly-eyed for a good five minutes before even reading the recipe. Usually, I don't like making things for the masses that I haven't at least tested first, but based on past experience with Wild Apple, something tells me no one would be disappointed.

  • Thanksgiving might be all about pies, but I'm a cake girl. Ever since I made these Pumpkin Brown-Butter Cakes a couple months back, I have been just waiting for an excuse to make them again. Moist, spicy and a great consistency, they received rave reviews from our guests as well. Thanksgiving sounds like just the excuse to whip up another batch, perhaps in a large, single cake version.


Here's to a tasty Thanksgiving and a delicious holiday season!


------------------------------

The Kelley's Corn Soufflé

20 oz/ 567g frozen corn
3 eggs
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup all-purpose gluten-free flour
2 tsp salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 tablespoon sugar
dash nutmeg
2 tablespoons butter, melted
2 cups half and half (half cream, half milk)
3 strips bacon, cooked unti crispy
French fried onions (GF recipes for homemade fried and baked versions)

Preheat oven to 325°F/162°C. Lightly grease 9x13"/22x33cm baking dish. Mix all ingredients except bacon and fried onions in the pan. Bake for one hour. Sprinkle with onions and bacon for the last five minutes in oven. Serve warm.

Serves 8-12 as a side (or 1, if you're me).


Top 10 gluten-free things to eat in Copenhagen

November 6, 2015

Copenhagen Østerberg Ice Cream cup with scoops and  watercolour fruit paintings
Copenhagen DØP DEN ØKOLOGISKE PØLSEMAND gluten-free award-winning goat sausage and root vegetable mash at counter
Copenhagen Street Food at Paper Island Copper + Wheat fries double fried in duck fat
Copenhagen Torvehallerne food market building

Let's be honest, traveling with celiac can be a huge pain in the ass. You just want to see new things, get lost in neighborhoods amongst the locals... that is until you realize you're starving and there's nowhere around to eat safely. Yes, we gluten-free folk know the importance of scouting out the right establishments and planning our touring around them. And in all honesty, how bad is it to plan a trip around the best places to eat? Even before I knew I had celiac, this was how I preferred to travel.

This was my first big trip somewhere new post-diagnosis, mainly because I heard such great things about the gluten-free options here. And I wasn't disappointed, though some surprisingly early closing hours meant careful planning was necessary (do check current times when you visit so you don't get left with an empty belly and nothing but packaged food to snack on). Whether you have to be gluten-free or not, these spots are worth a stop for something better than just whatever happens to be around.

So without further ado, these are the 10 best things I ate when I was in Copenhagen:


Grød caramel, apple and roasted almond gluten-free oat and quinoa porridge in Nørrebro Copenhagen

1. Caramel-apple oat-quinoa porridge from Grød


I ate breakfast here on three occasions, and frankly, I could have eaten here every day I was in town. There's a reason this place is talked about all over the internet, Instagrammed like crazy and even sells its own cookbook: Because it's a bowl of warm, satisfying love. The shop is a tiny little spot in a half-basement, with a kitchen so small you wonder how they even manage to serve up all that they do. Breakfast porridge, sweet porridge, savory porridge and some of the most lovely juice of apple and sea buckthorn you could ask for. Best of all: a gluten-free oat and quinoa porridge! Add the homemade, thick gooey caramel, apples and roasted almonds and it's pretty much the best breakfast ever. I gave it a shot with another topping combination, but it just didn't make my tastebuds sing the way this salty-crunchy-sweet concoction did. I still pine for it daily back in Berlin...


Grød
Jægersborggade 50, Nørrebro
also at Torvehallerne



Naturbageriert Landbageriert bakery gluten-free apple cinnamon roll æble-rissnegl at The Lakes Copenhagen

2. Apple-cinnamon roll from Naturbageriert (Landbageriert)


Living in Germany I admit I'm much more easily bowled over by pastries that ever before. Pastries here are fine, but growing up with sugary American treats, I find them too often unsweet, dry and frankly, boring. Add to that the limited availability of gluten-free options, and I've all but given up. But this Danish swirl of apples and cinnamon was a satisfying surprise. It definitely has the whole gluten-free texture and taste, but it's done in the very best way possible. It had just the right moisture and sweetness - and I'm still kicking myself for not stocking my suitcase full of them to bring back to Berlin.

One thing to note: This place is a bit hard to find, both on the internet and in real life (but don't let that deter you - it's worth it, I promise!). It appears that it used to be called 'Naturbageriert', but is now 'Landbageriert', though it's still called Naturbageriert on the shop itself. The shop is also very understated and the signs aren't obvious. I walked past it twice and didn't realize it was there. Look for the gold pretzel and the piles of baked goods in the window. This bakery is a life saver for any celiacs in Copenhagen, complete with bread and sweet and savory pastries and rolls (most are also vegan). I enjoyed a really lovely tørkage hindbærsnitte there as well.

Naturbageriert Landbageriert bakery with gluten-free goods in the window Indre By Copenhagen

Naturbageriert
Frederiksborggade 29, Indre By



Copenhagen Street Food at Paper Island Copper + Wheat menu with fries double fried in duck fat

3. Duck fat fries from Copper and Wheat at Copenhagen Street Food


A favorite of a very kind four-year-old I know, duck fat fries were not something I was about to pass up while on holiday. Apparently it sounded enticing enough to the rest of my foodie travelling group, and we headed over for an afternoon snack before our dinner reservations one night. Turns out Copenhagen Street Food is quite the lovely spot just across the water from the Nyhavn, an interior filled with food trucks and stalls, along with plenty of cozy indoor - complete with a stone fireplace - and picturesque waterside outdoor seating.

But we didn't go there to eat - we went to snack, on double duck fat fries. Three of us shared two orders of crispy goodness with an assortment of dips, but when the fourth member of our traveling band of food-lovers joined, another order had to be made. Perfectly crisp and delicious, these are my new gold standard for fries, the regular ones forever falling flat for me now. I'm sure there's a lot more great food at this spot, but I can't imagine visiting again without a cone of fries from Copper and Wheat.

Copenhagen Street Food at Paper Island Copper + Wheat fries double fried in duck fat Copenhagen Street Food at Paper Island outdoor seating area


Copenhagen Street Food
Trangravsvej 14, The Paper Island, Christianshavn



Copenhagen Costa D'Hellerup gourmet pizza with potatoes, pesto, pancetta and gluten-free crust

4. Pizza at Costa D'Hellerup


There's a rather annoying thing about Copenhagen that I really don't care for: Everything closes early. Sure, nicer restaurants will stay open all hours as they drain the entirety of your savings account with those infamously high Danish prices, but regular cafes and food establishments are mostly closed by 6pm. So what is a traveling, gluten-free girl like myself to do? Enlist her friend who has paid for roaming internet on her phone look up a safe option that stays open later than the early-bird specials. Enter my saviour: Pizzeria Costa D-Hellerup.

Just outside of the boundary of the zones for our train tickets, my friend and I walked through the suburbs of Hellerup to get to what was my last hope for a hot dinner that night. Like most people I encountered in Copenhagen, the guys behind the counter were ridiculously friendly and charming, answering all my annoying questions about the safety of their gluten-free pizza (considering there were regular, gluten-filled pizzas to be had here as well). The owner was really passionate about serving the best and safest option for celiacs: A dough made from wheat-based flour - with the gluten removed. He said he had never had a celiac customer get sick, so I was on board, though skeptical.

Since we trekked all that way, we splurged on one of the gourmet pizzas to share, with potatoes, pesto and pancetta. After a bit of a wait considering the long line of people queueing that evening, I was blown away. This was far and away the best gluten-free pizza I had tasted. The crust, I suppose unsurprisingly, was just like what I remembered of gluten-containing crusts: light, white and with the perfect amount of flakiness. Even my gluten-eating companion was impressed. The thing that won it for me? No resulting illness or even so much as a bloated belly. This pizza is the real deal.

The only downside for travelers at this great spot? It's really more of a storefront than a restaurant. There was a couple of seats and a lone tall table set up outside (humorously right next to a bus stop, which meant every bus slowed for us until the driver realized we were eating, not waiting for a ride), but that's about it. If you've got a car, I would recommend picking up a pizza, or four, and bringing that hot, cheesy goodness back home to enjoy.

Copenhagen Costa D'Hellerup pizza sign about gluten-free crust from de-glutened wheat flour
Copenhagen Costa D'Hellerup pizzeria owner behind the counter with employee

Costa D'Hellerup
Kildegårdsvej 15, Hellerup



Hija de Sanchéz plates of cheese, tongue and fish skin tacos and roasted peppers at Copenhagen Torvehallerne food market

5. Tacos at Hija De Sanchéz


When a former Noma pastry chef opens up a taco stand, you go. Sure, we ate at Relæ and Manfred's, which were lovely, but there's something about a taqueria that makes me come running. The simplicity of a well-made corn tortilla with simple fillings made with love and care is just about my favorite thing to eat - and these ones did not disappoint. Opened earlier this summer, this stand at the far end of the outdoors stalls at Torvehallerne serves up not only tacos with tortillas off a most lovely tortilla machine that I really wanted to steal and take home, but quesadillas, the most amazing chips and salsa, along with an assortment of inspired drinks like various punches or Micheladas. A little pricey for how much you get, but these are more than worth the splurge.

The taco fillings seems to change up regularly (yeah, I ate here three times) so be sure to inquire about any possible gluten ingredients, like meat braised in beer, or the like. Otherwise, the offerings are for the most part naturally gluten-free, so enjoy!

Hija de Sanchéz taco stand counter at Copenhagen Torvehallerne food market

Hija De Sanchéz
TorvehallerneKBH, Frederiksborggade 21, Indre By



Copenhagen Torvehallerne food market

6. Pulled pork wrap at Palæo


Sadly, I never managed a photo of the very first thing I ate in Copenhagen after hopping off the plane and trekking out to our airbnb, but it was certainly not for it lacking in deliciousness. The pork had a nice spicy kick, a bit of a surprise coming from spice-averse Germany. Add to that the good crunch of a cabbage slaw and richness of a cashew-pesto and you have one tasty, though rather messy, lunch or snack. I will say the egg wrap was a bit paleo for my tastes (to be fair, I'm a die-hard tortilla fan), but it was altogether a tasty, good-for-you option. And since paleo is by nature gluten-free, celiacs can eat here without a care in the world.


Palæo
Pilestræde 32, Indre By
also at Torvehallerne


Copenhagen DØP DEN ØKOLOGISKE PØLSEMAND gluten-free award-winning goat sausage and root vegetable mash

7. Goat sausage at Den Økologiske Pølsemand (Døp)


This famous sausage truck was mercilessly gluten-free-friendly in its offerings. While I mostly stay away from sausages (who knows what additives and casings and environment they've been in!), DØP thankfully stated their sausages were all gluten-free on their website (which was contradicted on-site, so be sure to ask which are safe) and even offer to serve them alongside vegetables instead of the ubiquitous gluten-y bun. There's even a veggie option!

I'm the first to admit that German sausages on-the-go are not what I miss most with being gluten-free, but these were some of the most impressive cart sausages I'd ever had. After being told the spicy beef and cheese options were off-limits, I opted for the award-winning goat sausage, set in a tray with mounds of pickled beets and root vegetable mash, along with mustard and ketchup. Even the pouring rain couldn't put a damper on my enjoyment.

Copenhagen DØP DEN ØKOLOGISKE PØLSEMAND sausage stand by the Round Tower

Døp
stands at the Round Tower and the Church of the Holy Ghost, Indre By



Copenhagen Nørrebro Karamelleriert shop caramel display

8. Caramels at Karamelleriert


I admit, caramels are one of my favorite sweets. Since I've butchered it every time I've tried making them at home, I'm OK with indulging in some pricy store-bought ones. And indulge I did at this fantastic little shop! My friends and I visited not once but twice to fill bags full of an assortment of flavoured caramels - from regular and licorice (both in sweet and salty), special ones like citrus-mango, cinnamon-caramel and peppermint - each time engaging with the lovely guy at the shop about everything they make and kindly answering all my gluten-related questions (FYI, there was only one of the hard licorices that might contain a smidgen of gluten). He even offered us to taste every batch of licorice powder he had made to understand the nuances of each one. Clearly, they are passionate about what they do here.

On our second visit, we lucked out that it was production day, the relatively tiny shop bustling with far too many workers for the space, frantically scooping, boxing and shipping, machines cutting and wrapping long, snake-like tubes of caramel, whirring and humming. Once I gaped open mouth at the positively massive chunk of caramel resting on a work table at the window and went to take a photo, our new caramel-making friend in the prep area grabbed my phone and took a few shots from his much better vantage point. After loading up more bags and picking out a special gift for my mom (happy birthday, Mom!), not to mention getting some samples fresh out of the packaging machine, we finally bid farewell to this most sweet shop. I'm doing my best not to order online, as I'm pretty sure that would become a regular occurrence...

Copenhagen Karamelleriert shop slab of caramel in window Nørrebro Copenhagen Nørrebro Karamelleriert caramel rope feeding into candy wrapper machine


Karamelleriert
Jægersborggade 36, Nørrebro



OLUFs frisklavede italienske ispinde ice cream pop Østerbro Copenhagen

9. Ice cream on a stick at Olufs


I first discovered this gem of a shop like so many wonderful things these days: via Instagram. Not one who needs any persuading for ice cream, I was equally enthralled with their gourmet execution. These are not your childhood summertime ice pops. In fact, they're not really popsicles at all, but more creamy ice cream encased in chocolate with beautiful, edible adornments on the outside. I wasn't even plotting a trip here, but when I spotted the wall displaying its logo and larger-than-life popsicle image on the side of a building while I was walking to breakfast on my own one day, I thought: Ice cream for breakfast. I mean, why not?

Somehow I lucked out and arrived just as they were opening up (again, team ice cream for breakfast) and I was overwhelmed by the freezer case full of a rainbow assortment of coated ice cream on sticks. The man behind the counter assured me they were gluten-free and asked if I needed any translation help. Luckily, Danish is so often close to German, I understood enough to identify a gorgeous-looking white chocolate and cherry pop I had to have. It melted quicker than I would have liked - after all the photos, of course - but it was thoroughly delicious and once again, I was sad I was not able to make it back for more flavors. It was also especially a treat since most gluten-free ice cream situations involve a boring cup rather than licking from a cone, I got to have my summery ice cream experience just like everyone else.

OLUFs frisklavede italienske ispinde ice cream pops display case Østerbro Copenhagen

OLUFs frisklavede italienske ispinde
Olufsvej 6, Østerbro



Copenhagen Østerberg Ice Cream case and scoops in a cup

10. Ice cream at Østerberg


I owe a huge debt of gratitude to friend and Copenhagen local Melanie for this recommendation. Aside from an unexpected stop at Olufs, my ice-cream-loving self somehow neglected to scout out any of my favorite summer (or let's face it, any time of year) treat. As soon as she explained how the gorgeous interior had blown up on Instagram, I was immediately intrigued. And so on our very last day, we made this our final stop before carting ourselves to the airport - and it did not disappoint.

The interior, with its crisp white punctuated with gorgeous watercolors of fruit, was indeed Instagram-worthy, but it was the flavors that had us swooning. Danish staples like licorice and hazelnut were joined with exotic choices like dragonfruit and aloe vera-pomegranate. I indulged, as I do, with no less than three different flavors and thoroughly enjoyed each one. The lovely girl working there - who funny enough, happened to be an American with Danish family who had relocated to this amazing city, because, why not? - swore their licorice was one of the best in Copenhagen, and while I had only tasted this one, I could swear she was right.

Copenhagen Østerberg Ice Cream counter and watercolour fruit paintings Copenhagen Østerberg Ice Cream counter with stools and watercolour fruit paintings


Østerberg Ice Cream
Rosenvængets Allé 7C, Østerbro