August was a bit of a tough one for me. Early in the month, I took a chance eating out - and lo and behold, I was glutened. It's bound to happen (hell, I've been glutened at a place that claimed to be 100% gluten-free!), but it always crushes my confidence with eating out, along with the resulting weeks of health struggles. So this month has been mostly eating in, as well as experimenting with vegan baking for all my new derby friends. It's been a challenging month, but as you can see, I don't have too much to complain about.




1. Iguana Bonita's Tamales and Homemade Chips

Ever since Ta'Cabrón stopped making its tamales - my very favorite thing - the state of Berlin's Mexican food scene has left me cold. We make tacos and even our own tortillas at home regularly, but homemade tamales just feel a little out of reach. Enter my savior: New to the Berlin food scene Iguana Bonita! Good texture, tasty meat fillings, this place was what I had been searching for! Rather ravenous after skating practice one day, I ordered their corn chips as well and was blown away. Notoriously bad in Germany, these crispy triangles of perfection with spot-on guacamole warmed this California girl's heart. They are by far the best I've had (save the not-gluten-free ones at Dolores) and if I were rich, I'm pretty sure I would pay to keep myself in a steady supply of these every week.




2. Vegan Peanut Butter Oat Chocolate Chip Cookies

For those of you who follow me on IG and Twitter, perhaps you've seen my lamenting over the steep learning curve of baking gluten-free and vegan for my plethora of vegan friends. It's not an easy task and I feel like I have yet to bake a vegan cake that even comes close in texture to what I can usually achieve. When I finally reached my breaking point, desperate for something that I could be happy to present to others for their birthdays, I made a pivotal discovery: Cookies are where it's at. Not having to work as hard to rise or match that very specific cake crumb, cookies are much easier to satisfy vegans and non-vegans alike - and this recipe is definitely a winner for everyone.




3. The Sausage Man Never Sleeps Streaky Bacon

My husband and I visit Simon the Sausage Man regularly, indulging in his pork products that are so unlike any of their German counterparts more often than we should. Being too singularly-focused, we had neglected to pick up his thick-cut, real deal breakfast bacon until just a few weeks ago. Now we're hooked. This is by far some of the best bacon I've had, perhaps ever. If you don't want to develop a serious bacon habit, stay away, I warn you. There is no going back after this.




4. My Special Chocolate Birthday Cake Recipe

This recipe is one of my pride and joys, one that is truly my creation. I adapted a childhood favorite, which called for boxed cake mix, into a gluten-free, from-scratch cake that I think might be even better than the original. The cake that I often requested for my birthday - then called 'Almost Better Than Sex Cake', because it is - has joined my celiac lifestyle with relative ease, save lots of recipe testing, which let's face it, means lot of cake eating (darn). So when one of my first non-vegan derby friends had a birthday last month, I jumped at the chance to make this for her. Rich and moist, with a bit of alcohol to add some depth, this simple-looking chocolate bundt is outshines its modest appearance.




5. Jones' Cucumber & Tonic and Blood Orange-Strawberry Sorbets

Gabrielle just can't stop coming up with fantastic ice cream flavors. These ones are technically sorbets (and I technically enjoyed them in the first days of September, shhh), but no less satisfying, especially on a warm summer day. While the blood-orange strawberry was her special, limited edition flavor, it was the cucumber and tonic, reminiscent of one of my favorite cocktails, that really got my attention. Cucumber, so often a rather light and lackluster flavor came through powerfully and perfectly in this dreamy sorbet. The only thing that could possibly make it better? The addition of gin, of course!


Don't forget to share your gluten-free eating wins with the hashtag #celiacdoesntsuck on Twitter and Instagram! Whether you're celiac, intolerant or just eating GF because it makes you feel better, let's spread the positivity of how good gluten-free eating can be.

Ahhh, July... Those mid-summer months full of sunshine and sandals, ideal for cool salads, ice cream and delicious food you don't have to slave over in your own kitchen. Last month was the perfect culmination of ideal summer eating, both at home and out in the glorious weather. Berlin summer, you spoil me.




1. Jones Lemon-Mint Sorbet

This long-awaited shop opening meant even more greatness from my friend Gabrielle, who I also happen to be an enormous fan of. I'm a sucker for anyone with a French accent and the chops to have baked at the Ritz in Paris, but her American-inspired ice cream endeavor speaks for itself. Tart and refreshing, this might be summer's ideal flavor.




2. El Carrito Con Todo Arepa

There's a new arepa in town - and this one certainly lives up to its predecessor. I go all in with the version that packs everything into that perfectly crisp and soft naturally-gluten-free corn pocket: tender beef, gobs of melted cheese, black beans and avocado (but of course they've got veggie-friendly versions as well). Just don't forget the extra napkins!




3. Chopped Thai Chicken Salad

Nothing is better than a crisp, cool salad on a hot day. Chopping to replace simmering over sweat-inducing appliances. This cabbage-centric, peanut-sauce doused version is definitely having a moment in my summer kitchen. What takes it to the next level? That amazing peanut butter I've been going on about since Portland in the Spicy Thai version doused on top. On the hottest of days, it transports you directly to Southeast Asia. Well, almost.




4. Melon-cucumber soup at Lykke

At my first visit to this relatively new Neukölln cafe, I didn't know what to expect. So I ordered this delicious-sounding soup to have along with my quiche, not realizing the quiche itself was rather large and came with salad as well. Even with way too much food in front of me, I could not stop eating this cool, refreshing soup. Might be time to whip up my own version at home...




5. Homemade BBQ Chicken Pizza

Ever since our Portland trip and all the amazing pizza - both fresh and frozen! - I've lamented at not having truly spectacular gluten-free pizza options here in Berlin. There are good ones, ones that get the job done in a pinch, but nothing I'm clamoring for out of much more than just convenience. So at home, we've been trying various crusts to see if we can't get something more like what we enjoyed in PDX. While nothing is 100% right on yet, we did discover a new recipe that beat out all other pre-made mixes we tried. With the addition of cornmeal on the crust, it was not far off from a classic American, gluten-filled pizzeria. After adding some BBQ chicken and extra sauce, cheese, corn and green onions, it was a pretty tasty replacement for the CPK version from the States I'd been missing.


Don't forget to share your gluten-free eating wins with the hashtag #celiacdoesntsuck on Twitter and Instagram! Whether you're celiac, intolerant or just eating GF because it makes you feel better, let's spread the positivity of how good gluten-free eating can be.

So it took a little longer than we all hoped, but the day has finally arrived: UK-based Genius Gluten Free bread is now available in select Berlin grocery stores! I have been anxiously awaiting this day since I first found out about Genius and its foray into the German market back in November. It was love at first bite. Before that, I feared I would have to move back to the U.S. to ever enjoy gluten-free bread this fluffy and delicious again, bread that was just like that which I remembered pre-celiac diagnosis.

It's been great to order Genius products on Food Oase, but there's nothing like just being able to walk into a store and pick up a package off the shelf to take home. I'm looking forward to grabbing some of its muffins to meet a friend for coffee, seeing as they are conveniently available just around the corner from one of my favorite Berlin coffee shops. In addition to Hannover and now Berlin, Genius is also in several other stores around Germany as well.

As freshly-baked bread, the Genius displays should be found in the bakery department in these stores (see above), but I've seen them set up in produce departments and next to the other gluten-free products, so do ask if you don't see them at first. Overwhelmed by all the options and conflicted about how much bread you can eat before it goes stale?  See my review of the complete German line-up to help you make your decisions. Or just eat baked goods morning, noon and night, like I am this week. Because they really are that good.


As of today, you can find Genius Gluten Free at the following Kaisers:

• Bergmannstrasse 5, 10961 Berlin-Kreuzberg
  


• Nollendorfplatz 8-9, 10777 Berlin-Schöneberg
  


• Neue Kantstrasse 29, 14057 Berlin-Charlottenburg
  


• Clayallee 336, 14169 Berlin-Zehlendorf
  


• Winsstrasse 18, 10405 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
  


• Revalerstrasse 2, 10243 Berlin-Friedrichshain
  


• Baumschulenstrasse 31, 12437 Berlin-Baumschulenweg
  


• Boelschestrasse 32, 12587 Berlin-Friedrichshagen

Do let me know if you see the displays and buy some bread of your own. I would love to hear how the Berlin gluten-free community is enjoying this significant change in our bread options! Also be sure to provide feedback on the German Genius Facebook page and ask other stores about carrying these products so we can increase the availability around Berlin.

And again, about bringing those pain au chocolat to Germany, Genius...



This post was in collaboration with Genius Gluten Free. I received free products for my original review, but all opinions are entirely my own.

Winters in Berlin have been pretty sedate compared to our first winter in Germany, which met our incoming flight from California - complete with piles of suitcases and a dog in a crate - with -15C temperatures and an absolute dumping of snow. I haven't experienced anything close again until this month. The weather gods answered our wishes for a white Christmas a few weeks late with -20C windchill and turned Berlin into a magical winter wonderland, for a few days, at least. Not sure if this temps this winter will dip that low again, but once is enough to jolt most into reconsidering their winter wardrobe.

After going from spending Christmas biking along the Pacific without so much as a winter coat, to managing regular dog walks in temperatures that make my lungs burn with frostbite, I've spent several years honing what keeps out the cold. Since making more friends who are new to Berlin or hail from places like Australia, which is pretty much California-down-under (just with scarier wildlife), I figured it was time to share what I've learned about keeping warm - and keeping all your digits - in a new and more diverse climate.

So if you're new to Berlin, or anywhere much colder than you're used to, for that matter, listen up. I have got some cold-weather gems for you:


Base layers| When the temperatures get below 0C (or in my case, anything in the single digits), base layers become a necessary part of getting dressed. I've tried silk, cotton, wool and synthetic and I have definite favorites. For years, I swore by Smartwool mid-weight bottoms. They are heavy-duty cold defenders, but do have the downside of being a little bulkier than most underthings and the wool can be a bit irritating if you have sensitive skin. Then I discovered Uniqlo's Extra Warm Heattech and winter life as I knew it was changed. The regular Heattech is fine and good for chilly days (like autumn), but the Extra Warm stuff is no joke, even on the coldest of Berlin days. The added bonus: it's super soft, plush and non-irritating. This year, it also came in a large range of tops as well. Stock up, my friend!


Warm accessories | Winter accessories are key in keeping warm. Good hats, scarves and gloves are essentially the cherry, sprinkles and whipped cream on top of your cold-weather sundae: without them, it's just not the same. I swear by this cashmere hat from COS (I have it in two colors, with hopes of collecting the whole assortment) because it's super warm, yet thin enough to put in your bag or even stuff in a coat pocket if you get too toasty. Double-layer hats, fleece-lined especially, are also a good idea for extra frigid days when you'll be out in the cold a lot. I don't care if losing 50% of your body heat through your head is really a myth, it feels true.

Scarves might be my favorite invention of all time, especially on days so cold that your first breath outdoors threatens to shut down your lungs. A scarf that not only covers your neck, but your mouth and nose as well, can be a total lifesaver. My rule of thumb here: Bigger is better, both in thickness of material and area covered. Something in lush wool like & Other Stories oversized scarf, or my go-to, J.Crew's brushed Italian wool scarf, are great for piling over your face and using your own warm breath to your advantage. Find wool scarves irritating or out of your budget? Zara never fails to make several acrylic ones each year that can double as blankets and keep out cold just as well as the high-end stuff.

Last but certainly not least in the accessories department: Gloves. Some people might say 'but that's what pockets are for!', but they clearly haven't yet hit a patch of sidewalk black ice and tumbled face-first into the pavement because their hands were stuck in... you guessed it, their pockets. In this day and age, let's be honest, they can't just warm your hands, they've gotta be functional too (read: let you keep being your super-productive Instagram/Snapchat/Twitter-self while keeping your fingers from going numb). I find Muji's touchscreen gloves do the job nicely and are priced so well - especially at half-off, as they are now - it's easy to pick up several pairs in anticipation of the ones you'll inevitably drop en route somewhere. I will admit, these babies don't hold up in the frigid temps like what we experienced last week, but it's easy to have them on under a pair of proper snow gloves or my favorite, fleece-lined knit gloves, and slip out of them to access your phone without exposing bare skin to arctic air.


Warm wool socks | In my book, this is a big one. One that can make or break you having feeling in your toes after going outside. This is also an area where you get what you pay for. The good ones are expensive, but can you really put a price tag on finishing up winter with your toes still intact? A few years back, I discovered Wigwam socks (out of the U.S.) and ever since, these have been the gold standard for winter footwear. They are like having your feet wrapped in the cushiest, warmest blanket all day. Falke trekking socks are also very good, and easier to come by in Deutschland, though not quite as plush.


Insulated boots | During the pseudo-Death Freeze the other week, I saw people walking around with sneakers and one girl even with bare ankles, which made me go into hypothermic shock just looking at them (though the sliver of opening between my hat and giant scarf, of course). I don't know who these people are with amazing internal heaters, but I am most certainly not one of them. Don't even get me started about what happens when the snow turns to slush. Warm, dry feet and happy feet and insulated - and waterproof - boots are a must.

Being the shoe girl that I am, I'm pretty particular that my winter footwear isn't only functional, but looks good too. Turns out to be a tall order, as most winter boots are terribly ugly, or at least feel terribly out of place trekking around a city in what looks better suited to an Antarctic expedition. If you can manage to invest in the good stuff, I can't recommend UGGs and Cougar Boots enough. Some disclaimers: By UGGs, I DO NOT mean the elephant feet kind, because (1) those offer no protection from water whatsoever, and (2) they fall into ugly territory. I mean the real leather, waterproof (or at the very least, water repellent) boots that look like they pass for real shoes. I swear by my Broome IIs, which are sadly discontinued, but the UGG Thomsen is very similar in style and insulation factor.

Cougar Boots hail from Canada and are honestly hard to come by outside its own great Northern territory. I've found some here and there in the U.S., but it's hit or miss. Like UGGs, you can also venture into unfortunate-looking territory with these, but there are always a couple pair each year that can pass for moderately stylish, like these Cougar Bang boots. Those Canadians clearly know what they are doing. My plush-lined pair is even warmer than my proper North Face snow-trekking boots, if that gives you an idea.


Portable warmth | When you need that extra bit of heat when out for a long day in the cold, something warm for your pockets is a much-appreciated extra. Standing out in the cold waiting for a tram or trekking through a park or forest means extremities get real cold, real fast. These handy (excuse the pun) hand-warmers from L.L.Bean are just the thing for those frigid days when your body temperature could use the extra boost. I've also seen what are essentially little hot water bottles for your pockets, but nothing beats these for ease and flexibility. Go forth into winter, and have warm hands!


While a winter coat is a given, the type and budget are so varied, that I leave that up to you. You can go with a simple wool number and layer the heck out of it, or choose a waterproof, heavy duty parka and be set no matter what Death Freeze decides to rear its ugly head. I have everything from Italian-made stadium cloth from J.Crew to an inexpensive snow parka from Lands End snagged on super sale, and it all keeps me warm mostly depending on these other factors here. OK, OK, the snow parka would probably keep me warm even if I were naked underneath, but you get my point. A solid coat is a must, but it's really these other details that keep you toasty overall.



Also worth noting: Many people swear by artificial sun lamps to help keep their spirits up during the long, dark winter that can lead even those with the most sunny dispositions into the depths of depression, but I have yet to try one myself (I've found hitting the gym to be a great mood booster). If anyone has any recommendations on this, please share your experiences in the comments!

Ahh, Berlin. It is a glorious place. So full of creative, entrepreneurial energy, which makes it an ideal city to seek out locally-made and designed products for the gift-giving season. Some of these great items I've picked up myself, some have been past gifts and some I pine for on my own wish list, but they are indeed some of the best that Berlin has to offer. Here are my picks (plus, a little background on each):


01. Antikapratika ceramic bowls | This Italian couple and tattoo-artist team started creating art off the skin with this gorgeous line of tattoo-inspired ceramic bowls. While the blue-based tattoo designs are their focus, I must admit I love the black designs that they have produced of late. You can see more at Un Autre Voodoo in Neukölln, and they seem happy to work with customers who want more of a specific design. This one's on my list please, Santa!


02. Maisoap | I first stumbled across this soap at a Christmas shopping market last year and have since noticed it popping up at various weekend markets across the city. Kreuzberg-based, this family business has been in operation since 2006, focusing on quality fats and oils for its soap production. Scents range from subtle basics like olive oil or lavender to the more complex coconut-lemongrass, avocado-mint and the cosmic-looking Berlin Bubble. While they offer essential oils and bath bombs as well, the bars of soap are really the stars.


03. Fluenk leather bags | While I was first intrigued by designer Anna's simple, soft tote bags at the Mauerpark Flohmarkt, complete with straps long enough for my lengthy limbs and an interior closer (thank goodness!), I have since become smitten with the rest of her unique yet timeless designs. Working with cow leather that would otherwise be a waste product of the food industry, the leather is tanned in Italy and made into not only bags, but wallets and other small goods as well. Though Fluenk is relatively new, the quality and craftsmanship speaks to a lasting Berlin business.


04. Atheist shoes | Ironically, I first found out about this company from the Instagram of a US-based graphic designer. Drawn in by the cheeky atheism messages stamped on the soles (and emblazoned on tote bags), I was won over by this concept of handmade, quality shoes. Technically, they're constructed in Portugal, but designed here in Berlin. With leather that is unprocessed, vegetable-dyed and gently tumbled for softness, customers swear they're 'like walking on hugs from baby kittens'.


05. Apfelsina bags | It doesn't get more Berlin than a bag made from photographs of this city's iconic landmarks and street art. Founded over a decade ago, creator Ina Kerkhoff began with a small, colourful collection of bags, and quickly expanded to varying materials and concepts as the inspiration struck. Designed and handmade in Berlin, her Stone Bone and Tempelhofer Freiheit collections are quite literally a pictorial representation of this great city.


06. Belyzium chocolate | A fan from day one, I've been frequenting this Berlin chocolatier for some time. At first, it was for the chocolate bars, now, I'm a regular for its spicy, rich Maya hot chocolate. With the addition of ice cream, hazelnut chocolate spread and even chocolate-infused rum, it has become the ultimate chocolate destination in Berlin. The owners will happily wax poetic about their chocolate, which only makes you fall more in love with the place. Finding out they had US-based partners in the California city I called home for a good part of my twenties felt even more like I was meant to be there. I often stop in when I need a small gift for someone, but have a hard time leaving without something for myself as well!


07. Format clothing | A bit like Atheist shoes, this Berlin-based clothing company creates well-designed, quality pieces from quality materials. Made in both Berlin-Neukölln and Szczecin, Poland, the designs are described as minimalistic, but with some truly beautiful tucking and pleating used in unexpected ways. With such attention to detail and certified organic materials, these are investment pieces meant to last a lifetime. My favorite is this cozy hooded sweater that is the epitome of Berlin winter wear.


08. Kaiserhonig | Anyone who knows me, knows I adore this honey. In two variations: thick honey with various fruit or spice or herb additions, or a creamier 'milk cream' honey with flavors like whiskey creme and salted caramel, they are a delicious treat on breakfast toast. You can also pick up an assortment of three small jars - perfect for gift-giving - at its regular stand at the Mauerpark Flohmarkt. Side note: a jar of the Zimt honey is a regular on my mom's Christmas list!


09. Berliner Winter | Cloudy, organic apple juice, spices and vodka. Drink it warm to stave off that Berlin winter chill. Buy it in bulk to give as gifts or horde for your own warming purposes. 'Keeps you warm, makes you tipsy and tastes so delicious.' What could be better - or more Berlin? Talk about a perfect stocking stuffer.


10. Elicamente jewelry | Hailing from Rome, Berlin-based artist Gabriele di Stefano makes gorgeous jewelery pieces that combine ceramics with wood and brass, drawing on the connection between humans and nature. The simple stud earrings and MRMR collection of necklaces are definite stand-outs. It also looks like he's branching out into other areas, with lovely little concrete planters available for pre-order to ship in February.



*photo of Antikapratika bowls by talented Berlin food photographer Claudia Gödke

The diversity of sights here in Berlin never ceases to amaze me. I love everything from the gritty, graffitied streets in Neukölln to the sprawling, Palo Alto-esque homes we pass through every time we head out to Grunewald. In a city where bombs leftover from past conflicts can still disrupt daily life, you come to expect the unexpected. But I can say that I was at least a bit surprised to discover the Falkenberg Garden City, a most charming development out in Bohnsdorf, built between 1913 and 1916 as a cooperative building society model. Architecture is a hobby of mine (one I even studied for a time) and I immediately added this to my must-see list.

So one weekend blissfully free of rain, we made a plan to check it out. It was the first day this season where the nip in the air cut to the bone, so I put on my new favorite teddy bear-like fleece jacket, along with urban trekking friendly sneakers and my new CRU London Gordon backpack for easy picture taking and snack toting. I am all about whatever makes it easier to explore this city in a comfortable way - and this time of year, a warm one as well! Bundled and ready, we headed out to the far southeast corner of the city.

Somewhere between Schönefeld Airport and Müggelsee, you will find a few streets with these colorful, distinctive houses. Tucked into an otherwise unremarkable Berlin suburb, these homes recall a much earlier era, one in which optimism and forward-thinking were paramount. We began with the street that was the second stage of development, Gartenstadtweg, on which several different kinds of homes were arranged in long, connected rows and staggered groups. Even with its long, linear model, the community and connectedness were apparent in the repeating architectural elements. True to its name, the homes on this street were overflowing with plantlife, even in late autumn. More striking than the lush gardens and lawns, a rarity in urban living, was the vibrant, idyllic architecture. The original little nook of homes on Akazienhof is less sprawling, but no less charming, with a cozy inner stretch of Robinia tree-lined green space. It's a little like a fairytale village within what is commonly seen as a gritty, urban city.

You can see more of my photos from this great spot here.

CRU London backpack | Uniqlo fleece coat | Krochet Kids Intl hat | Ace & Tate glasses
Design House Stockholm scarf | Nike sneakers (similar)

Gartenstadt Falkenberg
Akazienhof, Am Falkenberg, Gartenstadtweg, 12524 Berlin
S Grünau


This post is in collaboration with CRU London. Concept and styling are entirely my own.

Every time I start to lament that all the great summer events are over and there is such a long wait until the Christmas season starts, I realize that smack dab in the middle is that spectacular Berlin show: The Festival of Lights. A precursor to the holiday market rounds, the Festival hits usually around the same time as the brisk shift in weather, requiring one to bundle up tight in order to withstand chilling nighttime temperatures and tour the light shows. Sometimes a shock to one's fresh-off-summer sensibilities, it's still quite a show.

If you haven't made it out to see any illuminations this year, I highly recommend at least making the stroll from the Berlin Cathedral down Unter den Linden to the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz. They are indeed different from last year, with the Humboldt University display (first photos below) my absolute favorite this time around. Pack a bottle of something strong or be prepared to buy a few coffees along the way to keep the blood flowing. Trust me, it's worth it.












For more information, see the festival website and map of illuminations