Ever since I first stepped foot in France when I was 16 years old, I felt all my Francophile dreams come true. I loved the lyrical sound of their language, the slower pace of life and an emphasis on enjoyment of all things: wine, cheese, love. After all, who couldn't deal with a little more of that in their lives? So even with apprehension about how I could eat well as a celiac in this land of croissants and crusty bread, I couldn't say no to what would become my seventh trip to this beautiful country.

In late April, we enjoyed a truly lovely Airbnb within the walls of Avignon's old town, perfectly located for exploring the city on foot. After an unfortunate start with my first day there spent in bed with a raging fever, we explored the city and took several day trips out to the surrounding areas. We saw Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Malemort-du-Comtat, Roussillon, Gourdes, the beach at Carnon, Montpellier and Lyon. There was stereotypical Provence dreaminess everywhere - great cheese and wine, charming crumbling architecture and rolling vineyards - but also many thing that surprised me, like my first-ever sighting of flamingos in the wild, the incredible, 100% gluten-free Montpellier café and Avignon risotto spot we found, and Roussillon's stunning Ochre Trail (more on that in a later blog post). The saying may be 'Paris is always a good idea', but really you can't go wrong anywhere in France. Ahh, la belle vie...





Want more? See my Provence album on Flickr.

'Gluten-free? That's the same as vegan, right?'

If I hear this one more time, especially in vegan-centric Berlin, I might scream. Admittedly, this dietary niche is often a source of gluten-free eats for those of us whose dietary needs are not a choice, so I try not to take the misconception to heart. And when the vegan spot is charming and French? Well, then I'm even more likely to concede.

Our road trip back from the south of France last month took us through the beautiful city of Lyon, and I of course, had a sandwich ready-made in my bag for our lunchtime pitstop (thank you, Genius bread!). After walking around briefly, we realized that (a), it was freezing and wet and (b) we were there on Sunday, when most things were closed. Heading back to the car to eat whatever we could pick at from our gluten-free French grocery haul, we spied a little cafe that looked open. Upon further inspection, it had a notation for sans gluten on the sandwich board out front. With everyone eager to get out of the cold and the prospect of a warm lunch, we went inside.

We managed a small spot by the window in an otherwise very cozy and bustling cafe. When the staff realized we were American, and that my French would only get us so far, they brought out the chef from the back, who was also from the U.S. and happened to run the place. Josh had a friendly, Midwestern demeanor and a clear passion for his relatively new establishment. He explained that in addition to being vegan and entirely gluten-free (as always, do confirm the absence of gluten if you visit), the concept of the place was raw food. Hummus, seed crackers and salad dominated the modest food menu, rounded out by fresh-pressed juices, coffees, teas and my favorite part of any meal: dessert.




While my companions went for hot coffees and miso soup, I opted for a green juice and the tapas plate, complete with salad, house-made dehydrated crackers and hummus. While this was exactly the kind of fare I needed after sitting for hours on our roadtrip back to Germany, I must admit this isn't my usual kind of spot. But I came away rather surprised. The salad was diversified with kale and carrots, the seed crackers were hearty and flavorful, even the 'vegan cheese', something I am highly against considering my intense love of all things dairy, was surprisingly good. Even after such a satisfying meal, I remained skeptical but intrigued by the 'cheesecake' ordered by the next table over, but I needn't be. Cool, creamy and delicious, the punch of perfectly fresh raspberries and mint leaves just the thing to accompany the slightly citrusy tang of the cheesecake.

This little Lyon spot is so new, it seems it's still finding its footing. The handful of tables inside means it can fill up rather quickly and the electricity that flickers off every now and then only add to the charm. The warm wait staff give off none of that stereotypical French attitude, and chat together in varying levels of French and English. It appears since my visit that the menu is rounding out with more options (again, be sure to inquire about the status of gluten in the kitchen with these changes) and hopefully is gaining more momentum in a culture so dominated by dairy and bread. In addition to being a cafe and restaurant, Josh and his wife Pauline also run Ashtanga Yoga out of the spot in the off hours.




Le Café Vert
48 Rue Saint-Georges
69005 Lyon, France
Tel: +33 6 52 39 12 23



Take part in #CeliacAwarenessMonth by exploring the hashtag and sharing more about the disease through resources like advocacy organization Beyond Celiac. Don't forget to tag your positive gluten-free food photos and experiences with #celiacdoesntsuck - and help spread the gluten-free goodness!

Finding a restaurant created and run by a fellow celiac is pretty much the holy grail of gluten-free travel - and La Coutinelle in the seaside town of Montpellier in the south of France is no exception. Beyond a kitchen entirely free from gluten, there is an impressive wall featuring gluten-free products ranging from spreads and sauces to a plethora of pasta I haven't seen anywhere else. Add to that the entire refrigerator case full of gluten-free beer, and this might be the most impressive gluten-free restaurant I've seen yet.




My husband found this gem when researching where to travel to on the southern French coast, based on, as it so often is, somewhere safe for me to eat. While the beach out that way was a bit disappointing compared to the Côte d'Azur I knew and loved, upon arriving in Montpellier for dinner on our way home, we immediately regretted not spending more time there. Walking through the narrow, winding streets to get to La Coutinelle, the city had a Barcelona-esque vibe, with lots of young people out at bars and cafes with friends, spilling out onto the streets. When we made it to our dinner destination, things looked even better.





The fully stocked gluten-free beer case wowed us as soon as we entered, but then the wall of food stuffs and menu that proclaimed not only that is was a 100% gluten-free establishment, but asked patrons to refrain from bringing any outside food or drink in that could compromise the safety of others, confirmed we had come to the right place. The menu offerings were rather simple, with pizza, appetizers and burgers of an impressive assortment (from beef to fish to vegan), but very French in its decadent details and presentations.

Since we wanted to try everything, yet again, we got an appetizer plate, a traditional beef burger and a pizza to share. Our pizza had a similar chewy crust out of buckwheat to Berlin's Cielo di Berlino, but with the most incredible cheese and creamy, fatty toppings, it almost felt like dessert. The burger was not overcooked, as so often happens in Europe, and the bun was fluffy and flavorful, perhaps the best gluten-free burger bun I've had yet. Going all in, I opted for some dessert as well, and where the apple crisp felt rather lackluster in presentation, it was made up for in simple and satisfying flavor. And of course, there was beer. Lots of gluten-free beer.







The owners of this casual little spot were warm and friendly, happy to make accommodations and answer plenty of questions. I could see them take pride in the gluten-free assortments they stocked, and even prouder when they saw how I oooed and ahhhed over all the treats that were safe for me to enjoy. The place was empty at our rather early French dinner time, but filled up pretty well as the night went on. The crowd seemed to be like us, deliberately seeking out free-from foods in a country that was practically founded on bread and cheese. Let me assure you, it is worth seeking out.




La Coutinelle
25 rue de l'université
34 000 MONTPELLIER
Tel: +33 (0)4 67 60 95 41
info@lacoutinelle.fr


Take part in #CeliacAwarenessMonth by exploring the hashtag and sharing more about the disease through resources like advocacy organization Beyond Celiac. Don't forget to tag your positive gluten-free food photos and experiences with #celiacdoesntsuck - and help spread the gluten-free goodness!

Ever since Genius first gave me the heads up they would be coming to Germany, complete with a sampling of its entire German product line, I was smitten. Fluffy, delicious bread that was just like what I'd been eating nearly my entire life, before I even understood what gluten was. What celiac snatched away two years ago, Genius helped bring back. Now I've gotten a taste beyond just good bread... and I want more.

It wasn't until we were practically on our way to our holiday in France last month that it dawned on me: Genius was in France! With products catered to French tastes, visions of daily croissants danced in head while I plotted out every Carrefour within a 20 km radius of our destination. I knew of the pains au chocolat, which had won the Free From Food Breakfast Award in 2015, and have lamented that such a heralded treat was not to be in the German product line-up. But I discovered that this was not all. There was also brioche (one of my very favorite French breads) and Briochettes aux pépites de chocolat, which look to be mini sweet baguette-like rolls with chocolate chips (sadly, they were never found). If you too pine for the days of that illusive, gluten-filled texture of baked goods, prepare yourself as I share with you what I did find...




Croissants

Who doesn't love croissants? Flaky and buttery, they have the magical power to transport you to a little cafe along the Seine, people-watching all the chic Parisians. That texture and flavor feels so intrinsically tied to gluten, I feared I would never enjoy this French treat again - and all of the store-bought gluten-free attempts at this coveted baked good confirmed this. Until France. So I voraciously tore through every store purporting to carry the line, buying up every Genius croissant that hit the shelves. Technically, these are made without butter (dairy-free for the lactose-intolerant), but after a quick warm-up in the oven, they obtain that perfect balance of light and flaky, greasy and rich, essentially feeling buttery without the actual butter. Since I can indulge in that creamy yellow stuff France does perhaps better than anyone else, I enjoyed my croissants with a healthy smear of salted French butter, which melted into the delicate layers and made this exceptional treat even more of a treat.




Brioche

Since first discovering brioche on my study abroad summer in high school, they have easily become one of my favorite baked goods. That wonderful texture paired with the light sweetness was my ultimate indulgence, and one that always transported me back to my first trip to Europe. Genius's brioche is a bit different, texture-wise from what I remember about the bread during my gluten-eating days - a bit more dense and spongy - but still completely indulgent and satisfying for a poor celiac like myself that can't actually indulge in 'the real thing'. The slightly sweet loaf is a bit like a cross between a poundcake and an angel food cake, similarly enjoyed as a simple slice with little to no accoutrements. That said, had I scored more of these loaves, I have a feeling they would make the best homemade brioche French toast I will ever have. Here's hoping one day to make that dream a reality...




Pain au Chocolat

I am at a loss for words with this one. I don't think I've tasted anything quite this wonderful since having to be gluten-free, period. It's got the flaky brilliance of a croissant, then the dark, slightly bitter sweetness of dark chocolate, oozing out after being melted in the oven. One bite and it was easy to see why this is an award-winning pastry in the gluten-free world. Breakfast, snack, dessert - this amazing little piece of gluten-free goodness steps in whenever you could possibly want, *ahem*, need it. It is important to note that dairy-containing products are a rarity in the Genius line-up, and while I'm so sorry for those of you who can't get on with lactose, I am supremely happy they made the exception with this one. The chocolate is so creamy and decadent, I'm not sure the same effect could have been achieved without it. I couldn't stop dreaming about the pain au chocolat ever since I heard of its existence, and now that I know what I'm missing, I ask all of your to join me in a letter-writing campaign to Genius to bring these to Germany as well!





Even in France, where these have been on the market for quite awhile, they are still quite hard to find. I came across the croissants a couple of times, but the brioche and pain au chocolat, only once - not to mention I never even saw the briochettes. Perhaps like Germany, more stock is focused in the larger, more metropolitan cities, but it seems clear that if the demand is there, we should let them know. Contact Genius directly, comment on its posts and most importantly, but the products you can find so they know there are gluten-free eaters out there looking for better taste in their fresh-baked goods. Perhaps one day, we can enjoy a whole range of amazing gluten-free pastries and breads, available at any German supermarket (hey, a girl can dream, right?).



Take part in #CeliacAwarenessMonth by exploring the hashtag and sharing more about the disease through resources like advocacy organization Beyond Celiac. Don't forget to tag your positive gluten-free food photos and experiences with #celiacdoesntsuck - and help spread the gluten-free goodness!