As is so often the case, my long weekend in Copenhagen in August was so gratifying, yet over before I knew it. This of course means, like with most amazing cities, I'm pining to go back. Only a 40-minute plane ride from Berlin, it shouldn't be too hard to make that happen.

In addition to the amazing people - from the three new-ish/brand-new foodie friends I stayed with, to meeting up with a great blogging friend I made years back and an old friend I hadn't seen since high school - the city itself was constantly impressing me. While there's no denying the draw of Insta-worthy spots like Superkilen and Nyhavn, what I enjoyed most was just wandering, stumbling upon beautiful storefronts, great design in the most mundane of places and neighborhoods so picturesque you'd swear it was a movie set. Just hang out in the right spots and everyone looks as though they stepped out of a street style blog. The people were so friendly, we would often find ourselves in long conversations with shop owners passionate about what they do. It's no wonder these are supposedly some of the happiest people on earth. Then there was all the food and coffee (and drinks)...

Before I dive into a post about the best gluten-free things I ate in this Scandinavian capital next month (which were really good and surprisingly plentiful), I'll leave you with some inspiration from this lovely city. Just try to resist the pull of wanderlust, I dare you.




























































For more of beautiful Copenhagen, check out my even more comprehensive album over on Flickr, and expect to see many more latergrams on my Instagram

After my parents cancelled their trip to Berlin and our Bailey-dog got diagnosed with cancer, I was ready to let my birthday go the way it's gone for the past two years: postponed. Since I luckily got the flu out of the way this week, at least I won't be sick for a third year in a row, but there will definitely be some toning down of the festivities. Hey, when my girl needs chemo, that's the way I'd rather it go anyway.

All that aside, who says a girl can't dream..? I mean, that's what birthday wishes are all about anyway, right? Did anyone ever get that pony they wished for as a child? Plus, autumn for me has always represented the start of a new year (I was the nerd who liked going back to school), so my birthday always coincided with this time for reevaluating what I had and possibly a little reinvention as well (with hopes of becoming the cool girl that never quite materialized). These days, as I inch closer to 40 (*gulp*), I'm definitely more about investments than frivolous wants. Yes, any 'want' is by definition frivolous, but you know what I mean. Things I could love forever rather than just a flash in the pan. So, if money were no object and someone could wave their magic wand, here's what I'd wish for this year...


A perfectly simple black dress | All about the black in recent years, it has come to my attention that I do not own a Little Black Dress. Well, I own one that's not-quite-right for my body and will likely be eBaying soon in an effort to raise money for pricy canine chemotherapy (stay tuned for more on that!), but more importantly, it's limiting in its uses (read: it's sexy vibe, all the way). When I slipped on this 3/4-sleeve oversized dress from COS, it was classic/modern/chic, all at the same time. Equally at home at a party, or a wedding, or on a date, this little black number is classic Audrey from the the front, but the swooping back fabric and roomy pockets feel a bit avant-garde. It's everything a girl could want in an LBD, including a really reasonable price tag.


A tattoo from Sophie Lee | I was introduced to artist Sophie Lee's work through Australian friends who are also looking to get inked by her and I must say, I was immediately drawn to her slightly New Yorker-esque kind of style. Plus, working at the acclaimed AKA Berlin, it's hard not to be impressed. I wanted to start with another small piece on my arm and then work with her on perhaps a larger floral piece for my back. I was warned after my first one, once you start... and here I am, nearly two decades later, plotting more. Art is addicting folks.


Matte red lips | The more I use my Bite Beauty products kind friends and family have brought me from the States (mercilessly gluten-free and food grade!), the stronger my belief in lipstick has become. With a warm pink lip crayon, a mauve-y lip gloss and a brick red sheer lipstick already in my arsenal, I'm ready for the big guns: a matte classic red for fall and winter. Aside from all the creepy chemicals and lurking gluten (who knew?), most lipsticks dry out my perma-chapped lips and I abandon them at the bottom of a drawer before they're even half gone. Not so with Bite Beauty. I'm a hard-core fan and will camp out in anticipation when they finally bring this amazing line to Germany.


Clear eyeglasses | I am so in love with my peachy-pink Lucca's I bought earlier this year (and I've never had more compliments on a pair of frames, let me tell you), but as we slip into fall, something about the petal-like color feels rather out of the place for the season. Ace & Tate's clear-framed Hudsons keep it light yet neutral, a perfect pairing for say, a crimson lip and a little black dress. I mean, have you seen Anne in her clear frames? Sold!


Mother of pearl hair | I first stumbled on this hair color while looking at my hair stylist's website earlier this year and heavily debated between this and the pastel pink I had been wanting. Ultimately cotton candy hair won out, but now that I see this popping up more on lovely heads, I'm convinced this should be my next foray into this soft color trend. Subtle, Different. Love.


Simple {real} gold jewelery | In addition to these lovely Another Feather earrings, I'd like to repierce my closed-up second holes to put them in. After all, they're just sitting there. As my friend Kat mentioned while she was buying up lovely gold rings during our trip to Copenhagen, it's time to invest in grown up jewelry. I love the trendy, quick-fix just as much as the next person, but her determination to invest in something better for herself resonated with me. Might as well add the Crest cuff and Curve ring while I'm at it.


Zip-top leather tote bag & wallet | Totes are definitely having a moment right now, but like Birks, hasn't this classic really always been around? While Madewell totes have become something of an Instagram epidemic - because they're lovely - they fall prey to the same issue I take with most leather totes on the market: the open top. I suppose that's convenient for easy access while your hands are full, but in rainy, big-city Berlin, I'd rather my items inside stay dry and un-pick-pocketed. San Francisco-based Cuyana just released its new zippered tote in this buttery, butterscotch-hued version and even though I have yet to see one in person, I'm confident this is the bag I've been searching for. Add to that a very grown-up gold monogram and a chic black wallet to go with, and dreams would be made, people. Here's hoping by the time I can afford these, they'll start shipping to Germany...


Black brogues | Good black oxfords are hard to find, apparently. I've been on the lookout for years for just the right thing, with no luck. Mostly, I blame my Sasquatch feet, but really, the styles just didn't appeal. These new-for-fall ones from Clarks hit just the right note with an on-trend platform that isn't runway ridiculous and perforation details that keep them from feeling stodgy (read: too manly). Bonus? They are light and crazy comfy. I tried the blue pair on in the store (in a 42, which is unheard of for me in closed-toe Clarks, so err on the smaller side if you pick them up) and it was like walking on two little clouds. Okay, two big clouds, but you get my point.



What are you dreaming about this autumn...?



Sophie Lee's tattoo photos via her Instagram
Mother of pearl hair photo via Jenna Perry

Summer and ice cream are pretty synonymous. Unfortunately, so are gluten and ice cream. The cones aside - oh, sweet waffle cones... - often makers include gluten in their ice cream in the form of inexpensive thickeners and stabilizers. I'll forgive the addition of things like gluten-y cookies and brownies, because, well, that's delicious, but those other gluten-based additions are just unnecessary. Between these sneaky additives and all those cross-contamination possibilities, it's easy to feel left out as a celiac watching every summer passerby licking an ice cream cone.

But there is hope! Even in the land of gluten (beer! pretzels!) and limited celiac understanding ("but you can have spelt, right..?"), Berlin has some shining beacons of that ubiquitous summer treat safe for the intolerant among us. There aren't any 100% gluten-free establishments, but after my first summer post-celiac diagnosis exploring Berlin's ice cream scene, these are my favorites that have kept my sensitive gut, not to mention my very particular palate, very happy:


Leck Mich, Mitte & Prenzlauer Berg



First off, let's just admit that the name - "lick me" - is amazing. In fact, this shop's whole branding and decor is spot-on. But it wasn't until I discovered that this ice cream was gluten-free that I became a regular. The part that absolutely wins it for me? Gluten-free waffle cones! Not the out-of-a-box ones that a few other places use (see below), but homemade, real-deal waffle cones. Bar none, the best in Berlin. For the actual ice cream, we're talking 100% natural, organic ingredients with flavors like kafir lime, basil, cran-apple and yogurt. Reminiscent of gelato, the flavors are light and refreshing, perfect for summertime. Or anytime, if you're an ice cream lover like I am.

While the site claims they are 100% gluten-free, it's important to note that there is a cheesecake flavor which does contain gluten, as well as having wheat-based waffle cones, so the possibility of cross-contatmination is there, but still significantly less than most places. There's a lovely employee at the Mitte location that has clearly influenced the shop's gluten awareness, from the way they wrap the gluten-free waffle cones in plastic to handling them carefully-wrapped in a napkin so as to prevent gluten contamination (note: I have not seen the Lychener Str. location employ these practices, so it's worth asking for this level of care if your intolerance is high). They even sold some of her delicious gluten-free brownies one time I visited. Here's hoping they have even more gluten-free offerings, especially once peak ice cream season comes to a close.

What to order: Kabuba (Karotte Buttermilch Banane) on a gluten-free waffle cone or the affagatto, also available in a version for kids made with hot chocolate



Leck Mich
Ackerstrasse 144, 10115 Berlin-Mitte
S Nordbahnhof/ U/tramRosenthaler Platz
Tel: 030 54843909
Tues-Fri: 14-22, Sat & Sun: 12-22*

Second location:
Lychener Strasse 11, 10437 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
U/tram Eberswalder Strasse
Open: Tues-Sun 12-23*




Eis Voh, Friedenau



In business since 2010, Eis Voh was among the first to cater to the needs of the gluten-free here in Berlin. In addition to ice cream and gluten-free waffle cones (corn-based and out of a box, OK but not a dupe for the real thing), they have serval different kinds of cakes and breads, as well as some savory options. The sweets are unsurprisingly very German, from ice cream flavors like plum and poppy seed to less-sweet, drier cake selections, but there are a few not-so-common options like cinnamon ice cream and French-inspired eclairs as well. I've heard there is gluten-free Spätzle available here, which pleases me to no end, as it's one of the German foods I've missed the most. For now, I've only frequented this spot for the sweets.

How aware are these folks about cross-contamination? Let's just say that when my husband was about to put my gluten-free cone into the cone holder to free up his hands to pay, he was quickly stopped and warned there could be gluten on it from the wheat-based cones they also offer. Clearly, they know the needs of their customers. So while there are "regular" waffle cones for the rest of the customers, I'm pretty sure just about everything else in this shop is gluten-free, from the ice cream and cake selections, to the freshly-baked breads and few shelves of gluten-free mixes, cereals and boxes of cones to take home. The location is a bit off the beaten track, but I promise it's worth the trek out there.

What to order: Eierlikör (Germany's answer to American spiked egg nog) and raspberry (one of the best I've tried) ice cream or the can't-believe-it's-gluten-free chocolate eclairs




Eis Voh
Bundesallee 118, 12161 Berlin-Friedenau
U Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz
Tel: 030 85402065
Open daily 11-20*




Eisbox, Moabit



Known for it's simple yet special flavors and organic ingredients, Eisbox is truly a treat for Berliners. The stark, clean shop interior is perfectly aligned with the flavorful, unadorned ice cream in the case. You'll find no child-centric graphics or dusting of some unknown accoutrement on top of the flavors here, just excellent Eis that speaks for itself. Standby's like licorice, tonka and lime-rosemary are accompanied by the best of seasonal flavors: rhubarb-yogurt in the spring, cucumber-melon in the summer and plum-cinnamon in the fall. Another bonus? You can find cartons of a few select flavors for sale at Denn's Biomarkt as well.

Even though the ice cream here is all gluten-free (at the time of inquiry for this post) and gluten-free cones are on offer, the awareness of gluten-free needs is a little less than ideal, with the gluten-free cones handled and set up without protection, the same as the wheat-based cones. Depending on your level of intolerance, it is something to be aware of and possibly ask for more care when you order.

What to order: cafe oriental, a spicy cinnamon and cardamon with a hint of coffee, the simple orange-essenced vanilla or any of the unique herbal-fruit combinations



Eisbox
Elberfelder Str. 27, 10555 Berlin-Moabit
U Hansaplatz/ Solinger Strasse bus
Tel: 030 54484652
Open: Mon-Sat 12-21, Sun: 12-20*




Giorgio Lombardi, Mitte



Admittedly, I have a soft spot for Italian gelato and lucky for me, this newer spot does not disappoint. Giorgio Lombardi has the winning combination of a prime spot on Weinbergsweg in Mitte and flavors that will knock your socks off: Pineapple and lime, banana and ginger, melon, Italian classics like Tiramisu and Stracciatella... Plus, they take quality seriously. The nuts in the pistachio hail from Sicily and the 75% dark chocolate uses the best Domori cocoas. And it's no wonder they know their stuff: They already have a shop in Northern Italy.

All the ice cream, as well as the cakes and savory items are labeled as to their gluten, and vegan, status. With only one ice cream flavor containing gluten when I've been on various trips there this summer, cross-contamination possibilities are rare, though they also stock gluten-containing waffle cones (sadly, no gluten-free cones are on offer here). Overall, they seem very knowledgeable about gluten on the production end and the labeling is clear. Thank goodness those Italians and their celiac awareness have made it to Berlin.

What to order: the unbelievable ricotta with candied orange, the coffee that is a dead ringer for the long-time holy grail of coffee ice cream from Häagen-Dazs or one of the special ice cream cocktails when they are available



Gelateria Giorgio Lombardi
Weinbergsweg 5, 10119 Berlin-Mitte
U/tram Rosenthaler Platz
Tel: 0152 12086378
Open Mon-Thurs 9-22, Fri 9-24, Sat 10-24, Sun 10-22*


Runner-Up: Zwei Dicke Bären



Even though they're not really a shop (you can find them with their freezer cart at various food events around the city and at Mos Eisley, the gelateria where they source their ice cream) and the product is really more cookie than ice cream, I felt my good friends The Bears deserved some mention on this list. I like to think that in some small part because of my special food needs, the guys developed a couple gluten-free options in the last year that mean I can get my ice cream sandwich fix like the rest of the gluten-eating Berliners. They were also just featured on the premiere episode of "How to Make It In: Berlin", a web series by two New Yorkers about small business owners and their success stories around the world.

The Bears' allergy-friendly standby, the vegan and gluten-free almond cookie with chocolate sorbet is pretty tasty, but it was their chocolate meringue cookies with raspberry ice cream they did for the Berlin Ice Cream Market earlier this summer that blew me away. If you have gluten-free needs, be sure to ask them about what they offer and pick up a gluten-free sandwich whenever you can, so they know the demand is there!


Zwei Dicke Bären
Find them at Street Food Thursday and Gelateria Mos Eisley



* Opening times often vary from one season to the next, so be sure to check before heading over

ice cream cocktail photo courtesy of Ana Dahan

I was a firm believer that cheese was not a dessert... until Tim Raue

I admit, I'm a bit of a food snob, but not at all where money is concerned. In fact, I tend to be put-off by really expensive meals and instead opt for street food at inexpensive spots with super tasty, authentic dishes to satisfy my desire for the delicious without breaking the bank. With so many great casual and affordable places to eat in Berlin, I never really thought much about the fine-dining experience until my fellow gluten-intolerant and food-loving friend Christie came to visit. Tim Raue was on her must-visit list and with a set lunch starting at 38€, our first visit in over a year and a surprisingly affordable menu for two-star Michelin cuisine was reason enough to indulge.

With very little gluten-containing items on the menu, we still inquired as to what could be done for us beforehand and were told it wouldn't be a problem at all. It's no surprise that such an acclaimed restaurant is going to take food allergies pretty seriously. After all, that's a pretty long way to fall if people start calling you out for making them terribly sick. Not surprisingly, my much-anticipated visit to this mecca of amazing cuisine left me safe from glutening - and a serious penchant for the finer things in life.

The food here is described as "Asian-inspired cuisine that can be characterised as a blend of Japanese product perfection, Thai aromas, and Chinese culinary philosophy." You will find no bread, noodles or rice, nor any white sugar. They work only with lactose-free dairy items, but animal products are in nearly every dish. While they say they will make vegetarian alternatives, they "cannot offer vegan guests the same taste experience" (read: you're not letting our dishes live up their potential, so why bother). It always warms my heart when chefs stick to their beliefs with what they cook, but are at least willing to compromise for those of us who have no choice in what we cannot eat.

The amazing amuse bouches before we even ordered... and the equally intriguing and delicious
end to the meal - a mix of cold, crunchy fennel with pear

The restaurant itself is tucked back in a little courtyard off Rudi-Dunker-Strasse, with even the front facing the street so understated, we nearly missed it on our arrival. After our coats were taken and we were lead to our table, we breathed a little sigh of relief at the attire we'd fretted over that morning. The servers were all wearing either dark slim t-shirts or button-down shirts with black jeans and Converse sneakers. Perfect Berlin causal, but exuding a quiet elegance appropriate of the venue.

Lush banquettes and modern simplicity at Tim Raue

The tables were similarly simple and chic, with white linen tablecloths hung across and through small slits at the edges of the tables. The rich blue banquettes and light blue curtains were streamlined and simple, cool yet giving off a warm, calming vibe. Overall, I was feeling redeemed for the jeans I was wearing and it was just when I realized there were only chopsticks in front of me when they brought the amuse bouches that I started panicking with visions of accidentally flinging a cashew at someone's head at a neighboring table. Thankfully, with my increasing dexterity and the warmth of the staff that was perfectly happy to speak in German or English, or in our case, a bit of both, I was put right at ease - and kept my food at our table.

The most delicious - and expensive - fancy French juice I've ever enjoyed

I won't bore you with the details of every single thing I tasted or every minute detail of our experience, because honestly, I was too busy trying to snap as many unobnoixious iPhone photos before diving into whatever heavenly thing was put in front of me next to take copious notes. I will say the experience - and more importantly, the food - far exceeded my expectations. Not surprisingly, it's the kind of place where everything you taste isn't just good, it's one of the best preparations of said item you have ever tasted. That is, unless you're used to eating at Michelin-starred restaurants on the regular, in which case, I hate you.

Seafood at its finest: Langoustines with wasabi-crisped rice, a gluten-free substitution just for me

The menu here changes often enough, so I would recommend just ordering the first thing that sounds good to you. Or better yet, order something that doesn't sound like what you normally would and chances are you will be blown away. I am a notorious seafood avoider, but I sprung for the langoustine for my first course and it might have been the most delicious thing from the sea I've ever tasted. The same with the mango-based dessert - not my favorite fruit, but the flavors and the way they danced and played together on my tongue was nothing short of amazing.

My dessert, a mango-saffron dream complete with crunchy dehydrated lime slices

One thing worth noting is the peking duck speciality - which unfortunately is served on some kind of bread slice, so I was unable to try it. My husband shook his head in affirmation after each bite, telling me it took him back to the incredible duck we'd had at a vineyard wedding in Bordeaux a few summers back. Side note (and I've had other friends confirm this): if you ever get invited to a wedding in France, move heaven and earth to go. It will be some of the best food you will ever eat.

Christie's beautiful strawberries, the perfect flavor and texture combinations

With no alcohol and our modest three-course lunches, the bill was around 200€, still a serious splurge for the likes of us. Even so, we weren't treated as anything less than the well-dressed business men around us who clearly ordered everything on the menu. I would love to return for a special dinner, but honestly, with many of the same offerings on the evening menu, why not have the fancy lunch instead for a fraction of the price? Another bonus: Foodie pics come out so much better in the bright afternoon light! I'm already thinking of celebrating my birthday here in the fall...


Restaurant Tim Raue
Rudi-Dutschke-Straße 26
10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg
U6 Kockstrasse/Checkpoint Charlie
Tel: 030 25937930
Online reservations through booktable.de


Be sure to check out Christie's post on Tim Raue and other gluten-free eating she enjoyed while in Berlin!

The start of summer can so often be marked by that first day your toes see the sunshine after what has felt like an eternity crammed into winter boots. There's something about kicking your shoes off, letting your toes dance through the grass and bask in the warm sunshine that means it's officially summer. Every year there's a fresh crop of new strappy sandals, playful flats and summer sneakers to pick from, but really, there are only five basic styles that will get you through the season with happy feet. Just add pedicure.


1. Saltwaters

If you grew up in America, these sandals were synonymous with childhood summers. Well, all those parents were onto something. Lightweight, durable and, as the name implies, waterproof, these are some of the best all-purpose summer shoes out there. In the U.S., you can find them at places like Zappos and My Saltwater Sandals (where I always ordered from), but they have also launched a European Saltwater site for those of us across the pond - hooray! Here in Berlin, you can pick them up at Victoria Met Albert. Wherever you get them, trust me, you won't be sorry! Tip: Order your regular shoe size, not your sandal size.


2. Birks

I realize some people still have not gotten on the Birkenstock train, and that's fine. I understand 'ugly-pretty' can be a tough sell. But these babies have been around for decades and they're not going anywhere, so why not take advantage of their popularity? The comfort factor, coupled with the Made in Germany factor (read: affordable here), means I have five pairs already - a couple Gizeh and a few Arizona - including this summery bronze pair as my most recent addition to the Birks club in my closet. Birks can be found everywhere in Germany, from fashion-forward shops like & Other Stories to online mega retailers like Zalando to our own little Birkenstock shop here in Mitte - but my secret? Online at Natürlich are some of the best prices I've seen here. The stock moves quickly each season, so buy early. As for those in the U.S., I guess you're stuck with paying over $100-200 a pair *gulp* at places like J.Crew... until you visit Germany!

There is much debate about Birkentstock sizing. The official website say to order your regular size to make sure your feet have plenty of room to wiggle in the formed bottoms, but I end up literally falling out of my regular size so have go one down. Some pairs require more breaking in and rub more than others at the heel or toes because of this, but I'd rather be secure in my shoes than tripping any more than I regularly do.


3. Flip-flops

Whether your stance on the most casual of summer footwear is suitable for everyday wear or more relegated to the beach/pool (I fall staunchly in the latter category), no summer shoe wardrobe is complete without a pair or three. For the last several years, my favorite has been the cheap Old Navy version, perfect to stock up on have around for summer house shoes, trips to the pool or that blissful beach vacation. I've even enlisted my next US houseguest to bring me a few pairs! While I almost always size down in flip-flops, I've found these run more true-to-size.


4. Wedges

Summer means more to do outside, more traipsing around and if you're lucky, some lovely sunny holidays with lots of traipsing around somewhere by the sea. With all this walking, I find nothing works better than a solid wedge for support in a shoe that looks a bit elevated from a rubber flip-flop. It's something nice to wear to museums or to dinner without looking like the tourist that you are. I have a couple pairs from Clarks and they are some of the best sandals I own. Once you sift through the matronly styles, there are some definite winners. I've got the pair above currently on order from a flash sale site and I am anxiously awaiting its arrival... The U.S. has an even bigger range of Clarks and its sub-brands (artisan, unstructured, indigo, etc.), but I've found nothing beats the regular UK Clarks. Unfortunately, they do run a bit small compared to standard US and EU sizing.


5. Slip-on sneakers

Sometimes you need more of a shoe, even in the summertime. Something you can kick off while you're arms are full of picnic supplies and won't leave pebbles between your toes after trekking to a lake. While classic Vans have made a big comeback in recent years, I've been a fan of the lower-profile, super-affordable ones from H&M recently. If I get caught in a summer rainstorm (pretty common here), I don't feel too bad about getting them covered in muck. Another bonus? They run big so I can actually find a size that fits (still rallying for the size 42: H&M, COS, & Other Stories, are you listening?!). Pick up a few when they go on sale and you've got it made.


Here's to summer!